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THE PRACTICAL BOOK OF 
OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

FOR THE HOME GARDEN 



SECOND EDITION 



THE 
PRACTICAL BOOKS 

EACH HANDSOMELY BOUND 
AND IN A SLIP COVER 

THE PRACTICAL BOOK OF 
ORIENTAL RUGS 

By DR. G. GRIFFIN LEWIS 

New Edition, Revised and Enlarged 
20 illustrations in color, 93 in doubletone, 70 text 
designs in line. Folding chart of rug charac- 
teristics and a map of the Orient 
Octavo. Cloth, $5.00 Net 

THE PRACTICAL BOOK OF 
GARDEN ARCHITECTURE 

By 
PHEBE WESTCOTT HUMPHREYS 

With frontispiece in color, designed title and 125 illus- 
trations from actual examples of garden architecture 
Octavo. Cloth, $5.00 Net 

THE PRACTICAL BOOK OF 
PERIOD FURNITURE 

By 

HAROLD DONALDSON EBERLEIN 

AND ABBOT McCLURE 

250 illustrations in color, doubletone and line of 

furniture of the English, American Colonial and 

Post-Colonial, and principal French Periods 

Octavo. Cloth, $5.00 Net 

THE PRACTICAL BOOK OF 
OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

By GEORGE C. THOMAS, Jr. 

96 perfect full-page reproductions in color and 8 half- 
tone plates. Octavo. Cloth, $i.00 Net 



UNIFORM IN SIZE AND STYLE 

THE CURIOUS LORE OF 
PRECIOUS STONES 

By GEORGE FREDERICK KUNZ, 
Ph.D., A.m., D.Sc. 

With 76 illustrations in colors, doubletone and line 
Octavo. Cloth, $5.00 Net 



J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS PHILADELPHIA 



^^ 



COPYRIGHT, 1914, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 
COPYRIGHT, 1915, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 



PUBLISHED NOVEMBER, 1914 
SECOND EDITION APRIL, 1915 



PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 

AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS 

PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. 




NOV -9 1915 

2)G1,A416279 



THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY 
DEDICATED TO 

DR. ROBERT HUEY 

WHO GAVE MB MT FIRST INSPIRATION IN 
ROSE GROWING 



FOREWORD 

The author believes that there is need for a short, 
concise work on the best outdoor roses for our 
American cHmate, with practical working rules for 
their culture. It is his aim to supply this need in 
three ways : 

First, by plain and carefully thought out rules, 
which have proven successful for many years in 
actual practice. 

Second, by a list of roses made only after the 
entire catalogue list of varieties has been systemat- 
ically tried for years in this country in testing beds. 

Third, by illustrations in color reproduced from 
autochrome color photographs made from the varie- 
ties tested. 

In addition, chapters devoted to general infor- 
mation are added as of interest, and books going 
further into detail on the various subjects are 
suggested. 

The rules and arguments leading to their use, as 
herein set forth, have, as a base, rose growing in 
the approximate climate of the Middle Atlantic 
States, where the extreme temperature in winter 
does not often go below zero and the summer heat 



FOREWORD 

seldom exceeds 95 degrees. This climate has rapid 
changes, all damaging to plant life, and it will 
readily be understood that, with the exception of 
climates where there is a more intense cold or heat, 
the list and rules, as hereafter given, will hold good. 
Suggestions are made for growing roses farther 
north and farther south. 

In England and parts of Europe many roses 
flourish which when tried in America fail utterly. 

We have used the words ''failure" and ''weak 
growers" to mean that our experiments in America 
with these varieties have been unsuccessful. Under 
more favorable conditions such varieties may do 
well. 

This book does not pretend to be in any sense a 
complete scientific treatise on the rose or the more 
intricate details of its culture, such as hybridization, 
budding, grafting, etc., which the average amateur 
rose grower would not care to undertake and which 
are well and amply covered in standard works. 

The author wishes to acknowledge, with great 
appreciation, the help of Dr. Robert Huey in all 
phases of his work. 

Thanks are due to Messrs. Henry A. Dreer, Inc., 
Philadelphia, for their help in importing and secur- 
ing new varieties, and also for giving data on roses 
tested by them. 



FOREWORD 

The aid of Messrs. Williams, Brown & Earle, 
Philadelphia, made possible the taking of the colored 
photographs. 

The Japanese Multifiora which we recommend for 

certain varieties was first brought to our notice by 

the stock of George H. Peterson, of Fair Lawn, 

New Jersey. _ _ 

G. C. T., Jr. 

September, 1914 

FOREWORD TO SECOND EDITION 

The first edition has been exhausted, necessitating 
this second edition. 

Every effort has been made to keep abreast of the 
times; new information is added, and a few minor 
changes and corrections made in the text. 

In spite of the European war we have secured 
plants of most of the new foreign roses and have 
over five hundred varieties in our testing beds. 

The reception accorded to our book is keenly 
appreciated and it is our ambition to merit this by 
continued thorough and careful tests. 

G. C. T., Jr. 

March, 1915 



CONTENTS 



CUAPTEH PAGE 

I. The Phopagation of Hoses 15 

II. The Best Varieties, with their CnARACTERisTicB 33 

III. Cumbers 67 

IV. Location and Preparation 80 

V. Ordering 91 

VI. Planting 100 

VII. Pruning 109 

VIII. Cultivation 126 

IX. Some General Information and Hints on Hybridization 139 
Index 151 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

COLOR PLATES 



PAGE 



Testing Beds — Author's Home Frontispiece i^ 

KiLLARNEY BRILLIANT 26 l/^ 

Reversion of Mrs. Harkness 28 v^ 

Sixteen Best Roses (Following Page 42) 

Fbau Karl Druschki No. 1 '^'' 

Madame Jules Bouche No. 2 ^^ 

Antoine Revoire No. 3 . 

I Ellen Willmott No. 4 

KiLLARNEY No. 5 y 

Jonkheer J. L. Mock No. 6 / 

Madame Leon Pain No. 7 . 

Lady Alice Stanley No. Sy 

Robert Huey No. 9*^ 

General MacArthur No. 10 "^ . 

Laurent Carle No. 11 v^, 

Gruss an Teplitz No. 12 »^ 

Harry Kirk No. 13 '^ ' 

Duchess of Wellington No. 14 ^y 

Betty No. 15 »^ . 

Mrs. a. R. Waddell. No. 16 t^ 

Christine Wright 69 

Climbing Kaiserin Augusta Victoria 70 *^'^ 

AVIATEUR BlERIOT AND GaRDBNIA 76 ^ 

Roses on Dr. Huey's Place 82 i-^ 

First Bloom of a Hybrid Tea Seedling 145 ^ 

I Following Last Page of Volume, in Alphabetical Order 

J Alex. Hill Gray 

■^ Alice Lemon 

\ Annie Besant 

\ Beaute Inconstantb 

11 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

I 

"•British Queen 

J Cardinal 

■: Carine 

■^COMTESSE FelICIE HoYOS 
-\ COMTESSE MaGGI StARZTNSKA 

I (On same plate with Mrs. Hubert Taylor) 

"* Countess of Derby 

, (On same plate with Gartendirector Hartrath) 
^ Charles J. Qrahame 
4 Creme Simon 

.\ C. W. Cowan 

(On same plate with Elizabeth) 

J Dean Hole 

^Dorothy Page Roberts 

^ Dorothy Ratcliffe 
■^ Duchess op Sutherland 
\ Duchess op Westminster 
-i Earl op Warwick 
^ Edward Mawley 

. (On same plate with Eugene Boullet) 

* Elizabeth 
■i Eugene Boullet 

A Evelyn Dauntesey 

A Farben Konigin 

^ Freiherr Von Marschall 

^F. R. Patzer 

\ Gartendirector Hartrath 

H Geoffrey Henslow 
\ George C. Ward 
i (On same plate with Lady Battersea) 

^George Dickson 

\ Hermosa 

7 Hugo Roller 
A Joseph Hill 



Kaiser Wilhelm II 
, (On same plate with Charles J. Grahame) 

^ Lady Ashtown 
-| Lady Barham 
M Lady Battersea 
\ Lady de Bathe 

12 



I 



ILLUSTRATIONS 
Lady Greenall 



I (On same plate with Comtesse Felicie Hoyos) 

. Lady Helen Vincent 
^ Lady Hillingdon 
J Lady Katherine Rose 
/ (On same plate with Lady Helen Vincent) 

•i, Lady Margaret Boscawen 

Lady Moyra Beauclerc 

Lady Pirrie 

Lyon 

Mabel Drew 
"*, Madame A. Tupinier 
■J Madame Charles Lejeune 
4 Madame Edouard Herriot 
4 Madame Lucien Picard 
I (On same plate with Creme Simon) 

Madame Melanie Soupert 

Madame Paul Rouchon 

Madame Second Weber 

Madame Vermorel 

Madame Wagram, Comtesse de Turenne 

Mademoiselle Marie Mascurand 
^J Mademoiselle Simonb Beaumez 
\ Mary, Countess op Ilchester 
I (On same plate with Lady Battersea) 

^ Mary, Countess of Ilchester 
>• Miss Alice de Rothschild 
I Mrs. Arthur E. E. Coxhead 
4 Mrs. Charles Custis Harrison 
i Mrs. Charles E. Allan 
.i Mrs. Hubert Taylor 
; Mrs. James Craig 
-\ Mrs. Joseph H. Welch 
1 Mrs. Leonard Petrie 
\ Mrs. Richard Draper 
\ Mrs. Wallace H. Rowe 

I (On same plate with Madame Charles Lejeune) 

y Mrs. Walter Easlea 

Natalie Bottner 
1 Odette Pedriolle 

13 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Ophelia 



'^Pharisaer 

'''President William Howard Taft 

''Prince de Bulgarie 

"'^Radiance 

V Senateur Mascurand 

</ Souv. DU President Carnot 

^ St. Helena 

J White Killarney 

V W. R. Smith 



HALFTONE PLATES 



PAQB 



Rose CuTriNa Ready for Planting 18 •^ 

Hybrid Tea and Manetti Foliage 21 ^// 

Seedlings Showing Varied Growths 29 *■ / 

Hybrid Tea Rose, Not Pruned but Allowed to Develop 116 ^ 

Same Rose Properly Pruned 116 '^ 

Rose with Petals Removed, Showing Stamens and Anthers 146 ^ 
Same Rose with Most of Stamens and Anthers Removed. 146'- 
Seed Pod on a Hybrid Tea Rose which has been Hybridized 148 "^ 



THE PRACTICAL BOOK OF 
OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

I 

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES 

ESTABLISHED VARIETIES 

In this chapter it is aimed to give the reader such 
general information as will enable him to compre- 
hend the main principles of the propagation of the 
rose. In order that he may fairly understand the 
following chapters, and the general scheme of the 
selection of varieties and the ordering of the same, 
this chapter should be read carefully. It is not our 
intention, as explained in the introduction, to puzzle 
the home rose grower with all the scientific details 
of each phase of rose culture; but it is believed that 
the following paragraphs will give a good working 
idea of the methods employed. For those who may 
care to follow out such matters to their utmost 
conclusion the names of exhaustive works are given. 

Established roses are propagated mainly by the 
following methods : seeds, layering and suckers; cut- 
tings, budding and grafting, the last three being the 
principal methods. 

15 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

SEEDS 

In order to secure established varieties seeds are 
used only in special cases, because they can only 
be relied upon to reproduce plants of their own kind 
when they are taken from original species. Seeds 
of hybrids are useless for this end, as their seedlings 
do not conform to the parent stock. In other words, 
hybrids do not come true from seeds, and their 
seeds are only useful for new varieties. "Experi- 
ments with Plants," by Osterhout, goes further 
into the scientific treatment of seeds than any 
book we have seen. 

LAYERING 

Many plants and some roses increase by layering, 
that is, throwing out a branch which becomes rooted 
and in turn sends out its branches to root themselves 
and carry out nature's work of increase. Layering 
is not practised to any great extent, as it is a longer 
process than the others and requires not only more 
time to accomplish results, but also more space 
either in greenhouse or nursery. 

Layering is now only used for some varieties 
which do not root well from cuttings. Ellwanger 
cites Persian Yellow as one of these. 

It is a simple and easy operation, and is accom- 
plished by bending down a rose cane of a growing 

16 



THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES 

plant, scientifically notching it with a knife (tech- 
nically known as tongueing), and then putting the 
tongued portion into prepared ground, after which 
it is held in place by various methods. Roots are 
formed at the break and eventually the part so 
treated may be detached from the original plant, 
and becomes itself a complete plant. 

Pemberton in ''Roses — Their History, Develop- 
ment and Cultivation," gives very clear and explicit 
instructions on layering. 

SUCKERS 

Pemberton's description of suckers we quote as 
follows : 

''Many of the species, such as Rugosa, Alpina, 
Spinosissima and Lucida, together with Provence 
and Damask hybrids, etc., increase by throwing out 
suckers, springing up at some distance from the 
parent plant, and forming roots at the place where 
they bend upwards. These rooted suckers, after 
being separated from the plant, should be pruned 
back to a foot or even less, and then treated as 
ordinary plants." 

CUTTINGS 

Cuttings are slips taken from plants which, when 
placed in sand and soil, grow roots of their own and 
become in turn rose plants, giving the same bloom 

2 17 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

as the plants from which they were cut. Very often 
they are given greenhouse care and while this is 
not necessary, it obtains, perhaps, surer and better 
results. In experimental work, cuttings have been 
carried so far that they have been made success- 
fully even from rose leaves, although this method 
is of no practical use. No doubt many persons 
who have followed us to this point understand 
cuttings and have employed them not only in roses 
but in other plants, such as carnations and gera- 
niums, which are propagated almost entirely by 
cuttings. 

In their proper place (the greenhouse) cuttings 
as used in rose culture may be relied upon, but 
beyond this sphere their use is open to debate, as, 
in the opinion of nearly all the best authorities, they 
are not as satisfactory as budding. The main reason 
for their failure is that many of our new varieties 
are weak growers and cannot of their own accord 
win the fight for existence, even under favorable 
conditions. As conditions in our climate are most 
uncertain only the exceptionally hardy plant suc- 
ceeds of itself on its own roots. 

Cuttings are useful, however, when expense must 
be considered with certain of these hardy varieties. 
It would be easy for any one to make cuttings of his 
own, and this could be successfully done with the 

18 




Fig. 1 
ROSE CUTTING READY FOR PLANTING 



rill': n{()i'A(iA riON of rosks 

liar<lic;r kifi<Js of roses, Ui(;r(;l>y saving Uk; (sxpcnsn 
of purchasing. If roses arc purcluised, wc; sirori{f;ly 
re(;ornin(!ti(l buying l>ii(l(l(;(| [)l;i,riis, as Lfie slij^lil- 
extra outlay would he fully juslilied. 

While there ar(i inany jjjood articles on cuttinfi^s, 
W(; (H)jisi(]er tliat PerrilKirton's is tlie best, as it tn;ats 
of cuttirijjjs under glass and also cuttings in the open. 

lUIDDING 

In budding ros(!S .'i, strong stock is secured and the 
variety s(;lect(id is budd(Ml upon this stock, eventually 
b(!corning a part of it. The actual operation of 
bu(Jditig is merely to cut off the dormant bud from 
\}i() v.*iri(ity which it is (hisinMJ to perpetuate juid, 
cutting a slit in the; bark of the stock, to introduce 
the bud into tlx; s.'t,m(;. Wh(!n the bud so trans- 
planted becomes soiri<;wh<'),t established, all growth 
above; it is remov(!d .'umI tlui whole vitality of a 
prov(!d stock is thrown ijito the bud, giving it tlu; 
nourishment which a tri(!d (constitution insin(!S. 

In l']ngland the; two sto(tks most commonly used 
are Manktti and Huiak. In th(; cas(; of ros(;s with 
a pr(!i)orid(!ran(;e of Hybrid P(!rpetual l)loo(J tin; 
Manxitti stock is generally used; for those; contain- 
ing much 'J^ea blood the Briar has Ixxin found the 
better stock. 

A few growers in tliis country are trying Japanese 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

Multiflora, and with some varieties secure stronger 
and better stock than that grown from the ordinary 
stocks as generally used. Sometimes Rugosa stock 
is used for budding and a very few roses do quite 
well on it, the most noted of which is Molly Sharman 
Crawford. 

Undoubtedly the ideal stock for all roses has not 
yet been discovered, and a great advance should be 
made in this most important section of rose culture. 
In order to secure a perfect rose list, budding on 
different stocks should be tried. If cuttings only are 
employed, very many roses will not succeed as well 
for outdoor culture. 

There are two objections to budded roses. First, 
they occasionally break off at the bud, but this has 
so seldom occurred with us in actual practice that 
it is not worth consideration. The second and main 
reason is that the stocks upon which the roses are 
budded throw up shoots of their own below the bud, 
which, if left, take the entire nourishment of the 
roots and check the budded growth by crowding it 
out and taking its light and sunshine. 

These shoots from below the bud may be very 
easily detected upon their appearance, because they 
come up from the ground outside the plant and also 
because of their different habit of growth, containing, 
as they do, seven and sometimes nine leaves on each 

20 




Fig. '2 
HYBRID TEA AND MANETTI FOLIAGE 

At left, ordinary Hybrid Tea foliage showing five leaves on each lateral. On the right, a 
shoot of Manetti, showing plainly seven leaves on the lower laterals. Note also the greater 
number of thorns on the Manetti 



THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES 

lateral, instead of three and five as in most budded 
varieties. (Note illustration.) The foliage is of a 
much lighter shade of green than the shoots from 
the bud itself and its point of junction with the 
plant is below the bud. It is very easily removed 
by carefully digging up the ground, cutting it off 
with a knife at its union with the plant below the 
bud, and rubbing some earth over the cut. In 
addition, this main reason is not a valid objection, 
because it only happens with about one per cent, 
of the budded plants, and can even then be easily 
detected. To keep this percentage down, roses must be 
planted with the bud two to three inches below the sur- 
face of the soil, as hereafter advocated. If planted less 
deeply they will throw a greater number of suckers. 

Fewer suckers develop from Multiflora than from 
Briar or Manetti. 

Very often cuttings have only greenhouse growth 
when shipped. At best they are generally propagated 
under glass and have not had much outdoor growth, 
whereas budded plants are budded in the summer 
out-of-doors, and have even as yearlings a whole 
season's outside growth before being sold. 

We have tested the own root plants, as cuttings 
are called, and in one particular instance made the 
following experiment which decided us once and for 
all as to the merits of the two methods. 

21 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

One bed was made, and over fifty roses on their 
own roots and fifty budded roses were planted in it 
side by side, all of old and established varieties, and, 
in the case of the own root plants, purchased from a 
grower who advocates their use. At the end of the 
first summer the difference was plainly apparent 
and was strongly in favor of the budded plants. 
At the end of two years there was no possible doubt 
as to the result; the budded plants were far superior. 
Experiments with other roses have endorsed this 
result, and budded roses are recommended for all 
outdoor work for the majority of roses contained in 
our main list, whether Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Per- 
petuals, or Teas. 

In the case of climbers and some few very strong 
growers no doubt the own root roses would give 
good results, but as a working rule they cannot be 
recommended. In our garden are budded roses 
originally planted in the autumn of 1900 and moved 
from our first home to our present place in 1907. 
These plants are still strong and healthy and of the 
original lot less than two per cent, have died in over 
thirteen years. 

We know of one case where budded roses planted 
over thirty years ago are still flourishing, and this 
certainly shows that their length of life is all that 
can be expected. 



THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES 

In our testing of new roses the great majority has 
been budded plants and the percentage of deaths has 
naturally been greater in these new varieties than in 
established kinds. We have annually imported from 
three hundred to a thousand roses of new varieties, and 
yet twenty plants a year would cover all the deaths 
even of these new and untried kinds. Ordinarily, 
from one to two per cent, a year would more than 
cover the deaths of varieties marked "A" and ''B" 
in our main list, under the column of "hardiness." 

In other branches of horticulture budding and 
grafting have been tried with the greatest success; 
for example, apples, pears and peaches give very 
much better results for the reason that the kind of 
stock desired is supplied. It does seem that a tried 
stock is better than a different stock with each plant, 
viz., its own. 

Undoubtedly better stocks will be discovered for 
certain roses which do not do well on the regular 
stocks; but surely it is going backward to grow 
inferior roses on their own roots and be satisfied 
with them, rather than by experimenting to ascer- 
tain the best stocks. 

While all the better known rose books deal quite 
thoroughly with descriptions of budding, the "Nur- 
sery Book," by L. H. Bailey, should certainly be 
read by any one contemplating such work. 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

For many strong growing plants and trees, where 
perfect results are obtained on the stock of the plant 
itself, budding is not necessary. With strong grow- 
ing roses amateurs can take cuttings easily and in- 
crease their number of plants. 

GRAFTING 

Grafting is a modification of budding, and is a 
process w^hich may give as good a result in the end 
with some outdoor roses; but for the first year, 
after planting outside, the plant does not make as 
much progress, and our death-rate has been much 
greater with grafted stock than with budded plants. 
Unfortunately grafts do not take very well on the 
Briar, therefore grafters use the Manetti which, as 
explained above, is not the best stock for Teas and 
Hybrid Teas. 

Grafting is mostly used to increase new varieties 
which, if budded, would necessarily have to be 
operated upon in the late summer, the bud not 
developing until the following spring; whereas, in 
grafting, a part of the plant desired to be propagated 
is grafted upon the stock selected and growth at 
once begins; this is a very much quicker operation, 
but not so sure of success as budding for outdoor 
roses. 

Grafting requires great skill and is used to obtain 

24 



THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES 

quick results. Seedlings to be tested are often 
grafted and a verdict quickly arrived at. There are 
numerous methods employed in grafting, but the 
principle is the same in all; the variety required is 
spliced on the stock and, as in budding, the strength 
of the stock all goes into the variety desired. Graft- 
ing roses is usually done under glass and requires 
expert handling, both during the actual operation 
and thereafter. 

The books mentioned for cuttings and budding 
give the best articles on grafting, in addition to 
which "Parsons on the Rose" contains good, clear 
and explicit information on all these subjects. 

NEW VARIETIES 

New varieties of roses are developed in two ways: 
by sports and seedlings. 

SPORTS 

Sports are purely a matter of chance, and occur 
when any given variety shows a bloom or habit of 
growth different from the accepted plant. When this 
occurs propagation of the wood by cuttings, budding 
or grafting establishes the new variety. 

As illustrations of sports, the two following are 
well known and are changes from the parent stock 
in the color of the bloom itself: 

25 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

La France, color silver rose, sported with Paul & 
Sons, near London, in 1888, and gave the Duchess 
of Albany, called dark La France, a rich, deep pink. 
This was propagated and Duchess of Albany is now 
a well-established variety. 

Camoens, pale rose color with the base of the 
petals yellow, sported with Boytard, in 1907, and 
the new rose was called Ecarlate, a brilliant scarlet. 

With these two new varieties the habit of growth 
of the plants remained practically the same as their 
parent plants; it was only in the color of the rose 
that the change manifested itself. 

In the past few years the old rose, Killarney, has 
sported a number of times, giving among others 
Killarney Brilliant, a rose of a deeper shade of pink; 
WTiite Killarney, a rose, as the name implies, of a 
beautiful white; and Double Killarney, a rose of 
greater substance in petallage than the parent stock 
from which it sprang. These new roses will, no doubt, 
take their places in the list if they do as well as the 
old established Killarney, which there is every reason 
to believe they will do. 

Before so many hybrids were cultivated, and 
when roses were not grown to as great an extent as 
now, sports were naturally less frequent. Of course 
varieties which are crosses, such as the hybrids of 
today, are very much more likely to give different 

26 



THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES 

growth or different bloom than the old varieties, 
which were not so far removed from the original 
species. 

Changes in habit of growth occur as well as 
changes in bloom, and a great many of the Hybrid 
Teas and some Polyanthas have produced sports 
which have much more of a climbing habit than the 
dwarf bush from which such new varieties originated. 
The bloom in form and color is practically identical 
with the parent stock, although its period of flowering 
is usually shorter and its bloom less profuse. 

There is one very interesting illustration of a rose 
which sported, the new growth of which when prop- 
agated reverted to the original form of its parent 
stock. Heinrich Schultheis, a Hybrid Perpetual 
rose of deep, rosy pink, sported with Paul & Sons, 
of London, and produced Paul's Early Blush, a 
light silvery pink. Again it sported with Alex. 
Dickson & Sons, in Ireland, and produced another 
silvery pink, known as Mrs. Harkness. Both of 
these new roses were perpetuated and became quite 
popular before the Hybrid Teas came into general 
notice. In the year 1913 Dr; Robert Huey, of 
Philadelphia, still had plants of Paul's Early Blush 
and Mrs. Harkness. It was remarkable that speci- 
mens of both these plants partially reverted to the 
old form of Heinrich Schultheis, throwing up shoots 

27 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

with rose-colored blooms. If these had been prop- 
agated, some sHght difference between them and 
Heinrich Schultheis might have been shown, but as 
the color and form of these roses were practically 
the same as specimens of Heinrich Schultheis growing 
in the same garden, the experiment was not tried. 

Very often sports occur which are not noticed 
and of which advantage is not taken. Recently, 
while talking to the owner of a rose garden we were 
informed that one of her Killarney bushes had 
thrown out a red rose. There is a possibility that 
a plant might in some way have been misplaced, 
but the grower in question was quite sure that the 
red rose was a Killarney and that on one side it 
gave a flower of different color. We told her to watch 
the plant very carefully the coming spring, as she 
might have the pleasant experience of being the 
introducer of a new variety. 

We do not wish to imply from this that sports 
are of frequent occurrence, for in all the years we 
have grown roses, and notwithstanding all the care 
we have lavished upon them, we have never had a 
sport manifest itself. 

SEEDLINGS 

Seedlings, as the name implies, come from seeds 
hybridized either by chance or by man's handiwork. 

28 




SKKJJJJNOH HUOWJNO VAiUEi) OIUJW'JJJH 

O;/ fix- )<-ft-(i;)./irJ i<i<J<; v.'-AWnn <il it llyhtu\ 'J'ca, On Ui<; rigjil-haii'l ^i'/- v-'iUi,-/, '<f :i 
Vyi(:hijrai;),(/;ji„ JioUi t,h<;i«<; planto arc of fii<! Hii(ri<; ag'; »;)'J havft r'!«i!Jv<!<J i'J<;;it.i<:;),l <;;),r<;, NoU; 
difk-rt-nt habit of ;<rowtb <;vc-a at thj» early »tag<; i/i t)i<; lif'; of the plantu 



THE PROI^AGA'J ION OF ROSES 

Nearly all the older rone j^rowern gathered their heps 
containing the seeds in the autumn of each year 
and planted great numbers of these in nursery rows, 
hoping to secure new varieties; in this manner a 
great many of the Hybrid Perpetuals were discovered 
and introduced. liowever, of late years the com- 
mercial rose growers of Europe have hybridizcid 
different varieti(;s of roses, and by careful selection 
and breeding for sfsvoral generations are securing 
their new varieties. 

In Europe this work is maintained on a very 
large scale. Thousands upon thousands of seedh'ngs 
are raised each year, and only a very small percent- 
age are of any practical use. In this country only 
a f(iw men have achieved any great success in intro- 
ducing new varieties — John Cook, of Baltimore, 
Maryland; E. G. Hill, of Richmond, Indiana; M. li. 
Walsh, of Woods Hole, Massachusetts; Dr. Van 
Fleet and W. A. Manda, of New Jersey. Cook 
introduced My Maryland and Radiance, and Hill 
has given us quite a number of good roses, the best 
perhaps for outdoor culture being General Mac- 
Arthur, which is one of the finest all-round outdoor 
red roses grown in America today. Walsh, Manda 
and Van Fleet have been particularly successful in 
developing new Hyljrid Wichuraiana — Walsh's most 
notable iKjing I^Jxcelsa, Hiawatha, Sweetheart and 

29 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

Evangeline, all excellent additions and ranking with 
the best Wichuraiana climbers. 

Following will be found a tabulated record of the 
breeding of the main varieties in which the Hybrid 
Perpetuals and Teas figure. It has not been ar- 
ranged at all in conformity with the usual botanical 
analyses of species and sub-species, but the informa- 
tion given has been taken from such books as 
Pemberton's and placed together so that the history 
of the breeding of the different varieties may be 
seen at a glance. There are several authorities 
who have noted that the exact breeding of the 
Hybrid Perpetuals is to some extent problematical. 
The roses named as the Hybrid Perpetuals' im- 
mediate ancestors are generally accepted as such, 
but some few other varieties were used in the gradual 
evolution of this class from the first Hybrid Per- 
petual until the list was completed. At the present 
time there are fewer Hybrid Perpetuals bred, as the 
Hybrid Teas have entirely superseded them. 

The work of hybridization is a most interesting 
one, but unless carried out on a scientific scale it is 
almost entirely a matter of chance whether or not 
anything of value may be secured. No doubt any 
one cultivating roses to a large extent would greatly 
enjoy trying to introduce a new variety of his own 
breeding. 

30 



THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES 



/Persian ^ 

Yellow >Luteae 
Briar ) 



Pernetiana 

Pernet-Ducher, 
1900 



X 



(By 8ome\ / Damask 
considered \ \ \/ 
first of l-< -f^ 
H y b r 1 d / J Hybrid 
Perpetuals/ I. China 



X 



Hybrid Perpetual. 
Laffay, 1830. 
Held sway till 
1890 



Bourbon Perpetual. 



'Chance fertiliza- 
, tion supposedly 
' between China 
1 and Red Four 
I Seasons, 1817- 
L 1822 



X 



Hybrid Tea . . . 
Guillot, 1867 



\Hybrid China 



(Provence 

Brought to 
England from 
France about 
1600 

X 

1 China 



/Tea — Indica Odorata 
Introduced from 
China, 1810-1824. 
First improved in 
France where the 
climbing teas were 
bred 



Later Noisettes. 



X 



e,)J 



fChina Common Blush 

Noisette { '^ 

Philippe Noisette, J Muak Rose 

an American/ (Rosa Moschata) 

31 



grower, 1817 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

To hybridize roses properly one must have a 
greenhouse and it is astonishing what results may 
be obtained in a very small one. 

Books on this subject which we have found to 
be most interesting and practical are: 

'TlaRt Breeding," L. H. Bailey. 

''Plant Breeding, Experiments of Nillson and 
Burbank," De Vries. 

''Plant Life and Evolution," Campbell. 

"New Creations in Plant Life," Harwood. 

"Fundamentals of Plant Breeding," Coulter. 

In Chapter IX will be found a few hints on 
hybridization taken from our own experiments. 



II 

THE BEST VARIETIES WITH THEIR 
CHARACTERISTICS 

The rose has been the Queen of Beauty among 
flowers as far back as records go. Down the ages 
she has held her position unchallenged. India, 
Persia, China, Japan, Greece, Italy and the rest of 
Europe all pay her homage in verse and story. 
The rose is a native of all these countries, and those 
of the twentieth century are the gradual evolution 
from the original types to our almost perfect flower. 
At first this evolution was slow and greatly due to 
chance. Hybridization was neither understood nor 
practised. New roses came from seed, or from 
some new variety thrown out by an old stock and 
noticed and propagated. Nature's friend, the bee, 
did most of the crossing of varieties, but such progress 
did not suit rose growers, and from the gambling 
methods of chance seeds systematic hybridization 
became the order of the day. At once the rose list 
increased by leaps and bounds, for the field was of 
extreme fascination and boundless possibilities. 

Without going into the history of all the various 
steps, it is sufficient to say that about 1825 the 

3 33 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

Hybrid Perpetual began to take first place in the 
rose world. Perfectly hardy, of fine growth, having 
a longer period of bloom than its predecessors of 
equal growth and beauty, it became more and more 
popular, and held its sway until about 1890. Its dis- 
advantage was its short period of bloom compared 
with Teas and Chinas which, while very much 
smaller in growth, were more constant bloomers and, 
as a general rule, superior to the Hybrid Perpetuals 
in perfume and foliage. 

Tea roses had existed in England and France 
from early in the nineteenth century, and yet 
after the cross of the Damask and Hybrid China, 
which gave the rose world the first Hybrid Per- 
petual, it was not until 1867 that the first cross of 
merit between the Teas and the Hybrid Perpetuals 
made its appearance. At once the rose world ob- 
tained what it had so long desired, combining in a 
seedling the best of both parents, a rose as hardy, or 
nearly as hardy as the Hybrid Perpetual — a rose 
that bloomed practically as often as the Tea and 
that had fine foliage and perfume. This rose, the 
first of the great army of Hybrid Teas which was to 
follow, was La France, introduced by Guillot fils, 
its parents being Madame Victor Verdier and 
Madame Bravy. Madame Victor Verdier was a 
Hybrid Perpetual, introduced by E. Verdier in 1863, 

34 



BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS 

and Madame Bravy was a Tea raised by Guillot, 
of Pont Cherin, in 1848. 

The next Hybrid Tea that appeared and stood 
the test of time was Reine Marie Henriette, raised 
by Levet, in 1878, from Madame Berard (of Gloire 
de Dijon) and General Jacqueminot; the first of 
Tea blood, and the second a Hybrid Perpetual. 
This rose is listed in English catalogues of today in 
the climbing section as a Hybrid Tea, although 
still considered by some as a Tea, and so listed in 
the Dutch Rozennaamlijst of 1909. 

After the introduction of these two roses, La 
France and Reine Marie Henriette, the work went 
on still further and cross breedings of hybrids 
obtained by hybridization soon began to swell the 
list of new roses. 

Roses so obtained are known as j)edigree roses 
and very seldom is their breeding given, although 
it seems an open secret that three generations are 
often required before a new rose of merit is secured. 
The breeders and introducers of new roses naturally 
guard their breeding secrets with the greatest care, 
and little or no information as to their special meth- 
ods is obtainable. This secrecy is really eminently 
proper, as it has taken years of patient effort, care, 
and great expense to bring out new varieties. It is 
the breeders' stock in trade; they are entitled to 

35 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

hold the information they have acquired, and due 
credit should be given them for the wonderful strides 
they have made towards the perfect rose list. 

"V\Tiile it is impossible, therefore, to give the 
breeding of the various pedigree roses, nevertheless 
a few examples of roses discovered by hybridization 
and cross breeding of one generation may be of 
interest. 

In looking over the obtainable data it is at once 
noted that certain roses seem to stand out as having 
been the most successful parents, and of these 
Carohne Testout ranks among the first; bred with 
Souv. deM. Verdier, Aimee Cochet was obtained; 
with Merveille de Lyon, Frau Karl Druschki was 
obtained; with Fisher Holmes, George Laing Paul 
was obtained; with Viscountess Folkstone, Konigin 
Carola was obtained; with Bridesmaid, La Detroit 
was obtained; with Ferdinand Jamin, Madame 
Edmee Metz was obtained. 

In addition to this Caroline Testout has produced 
quite a number of sports, most noted of which are 
Admiral Dewey and Mrs. Longworth. 

Another rose which stands out prominently is 
Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, a pedigree rose introduced 
in 1882, and one of the parents of Caroline Testout. 
In 1894 this rose with Dr. Grill produced Antoine 
Revoire, a rose that is holding its own among the 

36 



BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS 

newer Hybrid Teas of today, and is still by far the 
best rose of its shade in this country. Crossed with 
La France, in 1894, Lady Mary Fitzwilliam gave 
Mrs. W. J. Grant (syn. Belle Siebrecht), a rose still 
popular; Kaiserin Augusta Victoria resulted when 
she was crossed with Coquette de Lyon. Kaiserin 
Augusta Victoria is unique in color and must be 
included in any large collection. 

Ellwanger's chapter on ''Seed Parents of Leading 
Roses," in his book "The Rose," gives some very 
interesting data on this subject. 

About 1890, owing to its longer period of bloom, 
the Hybrid Tea had pushed the Hybrid Perpetual 
out of first place in popularity, and from that time 
on has held sway as the premier class. While at 
first much was to be desired in some of the Hybrid 
Teas, gradually they have become improved, until 
today there is no question about their being the 
best outdoor garden variety; yet, in so deciding on 
them as the most useful class, many must be dis- 
carded as worthless in the cHmate of the Middle 
Atlantic States. The best of the Teas and the Hybrid 
Perpetuals, and also others, must be included in a 
list which purports to include the best outdoor 
roses. 

In addition to the hardy growth and long period 
of bloom common to the best of the Hybrid Teas, 

37 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

many of them have the long double bud on the stiff 
erect stem so much desired in roses, and the best 
varieties open slowly and keep well after being cut; 
therefore in the main list which follows we have 
put the best of the Hybrid Teas and have also 
included other roses which come up to a certain 
standard. In addition to these there are a great 
many which for large gardens should not be over- 
looked, some of them among the Perpetuals and 
Teas, and we have also added these varieties to 
our main list. 

Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to find 
many roses absolutely perfect for our cHmate. The 
winters are more severe and the summers hotter 
than the conditions to which imported roses and 
their forbears have been accustomed, so that many 
of the roses which flourish in Europe are worthless 
with us. 

The main classes include the Hybrid Perpetuals, 
Hybrid Teas and Teas, and are grown in two ways, 
as dwarfs and as standards. Standards differ from 
dwarfs or bushes (ordinary form), in that they are 
budded or grafted on strong briar and other stocks 
from two and one-half to four feet from the ground. 
They are most attractive and some are more easily 
reached than the dwarfs, as the blooms grow about 
the level of the eye, while all of them are adapted 

38 



BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS 

to formal gardens and landscape work. However, 
we cannot recommend them unless absolute winter 
protection is given, and this is best accomplished by 
placing boards around the plant, encasing it from 
the ground to above the bud and fiUing in with 
earth. 

In the case of some of the climbers, which are 
used as standards, an attractive effect is produced 
by allowing the trailing shoots of such plants to 
grow downwards, more or less like the weeping 
willow tree, and these are called weeping standards, 
otherwise they are the same as the regular standard. 
In the case of some of the Teas, which are grown 
very close to the ground in this way, they can be 
moi'e thoroughly protected in cold winters than they 
could be if grown as the usual standard. It is be- 
lieved that Teas are especially prolific when grown 
in this manner. One well known writer states that 
he has seen such a Tea with seventy-five blooms on 
it at one time. 

Standards require very much more room than 
dwarfs, and this is another reason why they are not 
planted so extensively. If used we would strongly 
recommend for them the roses contained in our 
main list. Dwarfs are budded close to the root of 
the stock and the bud is planted below the ground 
level, hence they are hardier and much more easily 

39 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

handled in winter than standards. In our experi- 
ments with standards we have found them to be 
most uncertain, sometimes they last for several 
years and again fully fifty per cent. die. An average 
of ten per cent, would be a conservative estimate 
for winter loss, unless most thorough winter pro- 
tection was given. 

Every year the commercial rose growers in England 
and the Continent bring out their new varieties; 
before a satisfactory verdict can be given as to their 
adaptability to this country they must be tried for 
at least two years. In many cases new varieties 
are shipped as such small grafted plants that for 
the first year it is almost impossible to test them 
properly, and a year later larger plants must be 
tried again. Very probably these small plants 
would do well abroad, but here they run the risk 
of being passed upon as worthless when many may 
be first-class varieties. 

Owing to the difference in our climate, even the 
color of imported roses may vary somewhat from 
the European catalogued description. The average 
rose is generally somewhat lighter in color, owing to 
our extreme heat in summer. Killarney is an excep- 
tion which proves this rule. This rose is catalogued 
in the European lists as ''Flesh-shaded white, suf- 
fused pale pink"; in this country it is a solid light 

m 



BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS 

pink, the shade depending on the sunHght, being 
deeper in bright, hot weather. In the early spring 
and in the autumn the color of most roses with us 
is darker than in the summer, some varieties that 
usually have a slight yellow tint becoming almost 
pink under frosty nights and warm days. Mainly 
for the first reason given it is a lottery for the aver- 
age rose grower to order new varieties; the greater 
part will prove utter disappointments, a waste of 
money, space, time and care, and the catalogued 
description must be more than discounted. 

This book should guide the American purchaser 
to order those roses which will give him the best 
results. To secure a perfect list of such roses, we 
have carefully tested every variety found in the 
best of European catalogues, and in our list at the 
end of this chapter there has been included every 
variety which has come up to a certain standard. 
Those which we have excluded have not proved 
successful after a test in which all had the same 
chance. 

SIXTEEN BEST ALL-ROUND ROSES 

In order to be of the greatest practical aid to the 
home rose grower we have made a selection of the 
sixteen roses which have proved by our tests to be 
the best adapted in beauty and usefulness to outdoor 

41 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

growing. A color-plate with an accompanying full 
description is given of each of these roses. 

This selection includes one white, one white with 
center shaded primrose or lightest blush, two flesh- 
colored — one shaded peach to lilac and the other 
shaded shell pink. 

Four pinks: one light pink, one dark to imperial 
pink, one flesh to light salmon pink, and one silver 
pink to dark salmon — sometimes coral pink. 

Four shades of red: crimson cerise, bright crim- 
son, brilliant carmine and scarlet crimson. 

Four shades of yellow : light yellow, yellow-orange, 
coppery rose and reddish bronze. 

In this following selection of sixteen roses we have 
included the best rose of each main shade. Their 
qualities have been noted in the description which 
accompanies them; there is no doubt, from our 
experiments, that these are the best outdoor roses 
for our climate and will give absolute satisfaction. 
We have given this list and their descriptions before 
coming to the general list because we particularly 
wish to emphasize their value. 

There are roses in the main list under No. 2 
heading which are better than some in the above 
selection, but they are of different shades. The 
best rose of each main color is the one specified in 
this sixteen. 



2. WHITE— CENTER SHADED PRIMROSE OR LIGHTEST 

BLUSH— VARIES 

Madame Jules Bouche. Croibier & Fils; 1911. Hybrid 

Tea 
Of medium to large growth, very hardy; good to very good foUage, 
long, erect stem; long bud which develops into a medium-sized flower 
of wonderful substance and great lasting qualities. A splendid 
bloomer in spring, good in summer and remarkably good in fall. 
The best new rose since Duchess of Wellington and by all means 
the best white to blush rose. Plant 18 inches center to center. 
Prune to 5 eyes (buds). 




See list 



]\[ADAME JULES BOUCHE Ilyhnd Tea 
Croibiek & FiLS 1911 



3. FLESH TO CREAM— YELLOW PEACH CENTER, SOME- 
TIMES WITH LILAC SHADING 

Antoine Revoire. Pernet-Ducher; 1896. Hybrid Tea. 
(Dr. Grill X Lady Fitzwilliam) 
Of medium growth, very hardy; foliage bkie-green leathery, long 
erect stem; beautiful bud, opening into medium to large bloom of 
gardenia form, fine substance, many petals, lasts very well after 
cutting. Blooms prolifically in June, quite well in summer, quite 
well in autumn. A rose which has stood as the best, of this shade 
since its production. Plant 15 inches center to center. Prune to 4 
eyes (buds). 



4. SILVER FLESH TO SHELL PINK 

Ellen Willmott. Bernaix; 1898. Hybrid Tea 
Medium to strong growth, very hardy; splendid leathery green 
foliage; quite a good erect stem, opening into a bloom of medium 
size; very fine bloomer in spring, good to very good in summer and 
autumn; this rose is a stronger grower and has a better stem than " 
Souv. du President Carnot although not quite as beautiful in bud 
form, but is placed first on account of its reliability as a summer 
and autumn bloomer and its better growth and foliage. Plant 18 
inches center to center. Prune to 4 eyes (buds). 



5. LIGHT PINK 

KiLLARNEY. DiCKSON & SoNS," 1898. HtBRID TeA 

Medium to large growth, very hardy; foliage liable to mildew in 
wet seasons towards autumn, but Killarney has the red tea foliage, 
especially in young growth, which is so beautiful in many teas; 
long, fairly erect stem, beautiful pointed bud, not of great petallage 
but very beautiful, although not a very long keeper; a wonderful 
bloomer from frost to frost. Plant 18 inches center to center. 
Prune to 5 eyes (buds). 



6. IMPERIAL PINK 

JoNKHEER J. L. Mock. Leenders; 1909. Hybrid Tea 
Very large growth and very hardy; only fair foliage, extremely long 
stems; long bud and large bloom of great substance; not a proUfic 
but, considering the length of stems, a fine bloomer from frost 
to frost and a long keeper. Absolutely necessary to secure m two- 
year-old plants; yearlings do not appear to transplant with any 
success. Plant 20 inches center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds). 



7. SILVER FLESH TO PEARL SALMON PINK CENTER 
Mme Leon Pain. Guillot; 1904. (Caroline Testout X 
Souv. DE Catharine Guillot) 
Hybrid Tea. Of medium to large growth, very hardy; foUage per- 
fect leathery green to reddish tea; long, erect stem; medium to large 
bud, opening into a bloom of substance, full, double, and of good 
lasting qualities; blooms very well in spring, summer and autumn. 
This is the best of the lightest salmon pinks and a fine, reliable, 
all-round rose. Mme. Segond Weber is a more brilliant salmon 
than Mme. Leon Pain and of more perfect form, but not as reliable 
a bloomer in the summer and autumn. Plant 18 inches center to 
center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds). 

[The rose at the left is La Detroit, a fair rose but inferior to 
the newer pinks.] 



8. TWO-SHADED PINK 

Silver Pink to Dark Salmon, Sometimes Approaching Coral 
Rose; Outside of Petals Dark Shade, Inside, Silver Pink 
Lady Alice Stanley. McGkedy; 1909. Hybrid Tea 
Medium to large growth; very hardy and very fair foliage; long, stiff 
stem; large bloom of great substance and petallage; a fine keeper; 
blooms most prolifically in spring, and quite well in summer and 
autumn. Undoubtedly a great rose and the best of the solid pinks 
of two shades, of which Lady Faire and Mrs. Hill were the fore- 
runners. Plant 18 inches center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds). 



9. WARM CRIMSON CERISE-EDGED PINK 

Robert Huey. Dickson & Sons; 1911. Hybrid Tea 
Medium to large growth, very hardy; very good foUage, light green 
in color; fairly long, erect stems; beautiful long, pointed bud; a 
medium to large bloom of great substance and petallage; blooms 
well in the spring and does remarkably well in extremely hot summer 
weather; a good keeper but only a fair autumn bloomer. Plant 
18 inches center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds). 



10. BRIGHT CRIMSON 

Geneeal IIacAethce. Hill; 1905. Htbeid Tea. (In- 

TEODCCED BT A2\ AmEEICAX GeOWEE> 

Medium to large growth, very hardy; fine leatheary foliage, good 
stems; fairly long ?jud, opening into medi'oia-feized bloom of fair 
Bubfeiance; a very fine keeper and good bloomer from frost to frost. 
Not as large as Huey or Carle. Plant 18 inch^ caiter to center. 
Pnme to 5 eyes (bud.-:;. 



11. BRILLIANT CARMINE 

Laurent Carle. Pernet-Ducher; 1908. Hybrid Tea 
Medium growth, very hardy; fairly long, erect stem, good foliage, 
long, pointed bud; medium to large flower of good substance and 
beauty. Blooms well in the spring, fairly well in the summer, and 
quite well in the autumn. Plant 18 inches center to center. Prune 
to 4 eyes (buds). 



12. SCARLET CRIMSON 

Gkuss an Teplitz. Geschwind; 1897. Hybrid Tea. 
(Usually Classed with the Climbing Section). (Paxton 
X Fellemberg) X (Papa Gontier X Gloire des Rosomanes) 
Very large growth, extremely hardy; good foliage, short stems (often 
weak) ; bloom, which opens flat, nevertheless one of the best bloom- 
ing roses existing today; a mass of color from spring till after frost; 
while not of perfect form for cutting still such a profuse and constant 
bloomer that it is included in this first list. Plant 27 inches center 
to center. Prune lightly. Cut out dead wood. 



13. LIGHT SULPHUR YELLOW 

Harry Kirk. Dickson & Sons; 1907. Tea 
Classed as a Tea but with the habits of the largest Hybrid Teas; 
large growth, very hardy; fine foliage, long stem; long, pointed bud, 
which opens into a bloom of medium to large size, but not double, 
and which does not last well; should be cut before the dew is off, or 
late in the afternoon before the bud is open. A great bloomer, 
splendid in spring, good in summer and in autumn. Plant 20 inches 
center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds). 



14. YELLOW TO ORANGE 

Duchess of Wellington. Dickson & Sows; 1909. Hybrid 

Tea 
Medium to large growth, very hardy; fine foliage, fairly long erect 
stem; long, pointed bud, medium to large flower, but not of great 
petallage; only fair keeper but a wonderful bloomer from frost to 
frost; the best yellow rose beyond all question. Plant 18 inches 
center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds). 

Note. — Illustration considerably less than actual size. 



15. COPPERY ROSE— OVERSPREAD WITH GOLDEN 
YELLOW 
This is Dicksons' description. With us, particularly in the 
late spring and summer, the rose verges more from cream to 
orange-salmon. In the autumn it more nearly approaches 
Dicksons' description. 

Betty. Dickson & Sons; 1905. Hybrid Tea 
Large growth, good foliage; very hardy, long stem, but not always 
erect; long, pointed bud; a poor keeper; opens quickly and with no 
great petallage; its blooming qualities, wonderful in spring and 
autumn, good in summer, secure it a place in the first list. Plant 
18 inches center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds). 



16. COPPERY SALMON-REDDISH BRONZE 

Mes. a. R. Waddell. Peenet-Ducher; 1908. Htbbid 
Tea 

Medium spreading growth, fine foliage; very hardy, fair stem; pretty 
bud but opens somewhat single; in summer not a good keeper. 
Undoubtedly the best of its color, and a wonderful bloomer m spnng, 
moderate in summer and very good in autumn. Plant 18 mches 
center to center. Prune to 4 eyes (buds). 



BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS 

A Main List of Roses 

In the main list the numbers 1, 2 and 3 appear in 
column marked "List." 

No. 1 is for the sixteen roses which have just 
been described, and they should be sufficient for 
any one desiring from twelve to fifty roses. 

The roses listed No. 2 are those which have stood 
the tests very well; they have surpassed the great 
main body of varieties which have been discarded 
as not coming up to the requisite standard. No. 2 
is a list of honor and is for good, all-round roses, 
with the faults plainly noted under the various 
headings. Before putting these roses in this No. 2 
list hundreds of roses have been carefully tested, 
and these are the ones which have been found most 
suitable for our climate and conditions as all-round 
varieties. 

For a person wishing a greater variety of all- 
round roses than is included in the No. 1 list. No. 2 
is recommended. If one prefers more pink roses, for 
instance, than the four named in the first list, other 
pink roses under No. 2 will supply the want. 

The roses listed No. 3 are special roses and should 
be mainly ordered either for large gardens or col- 
lections, or by persons thoroughly understanding 
their failings, all of which are noted under the 
various headings. 

43 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

It would be easy to make list No. 3 very much 
larger; for instance, in the case of the single Irish 
roses, we have included in this list only the best 
of this type. If one of these roses is tried, and the 
person so experimenting wishes more, it is very 
easy for him to order others. Originally our list 
was very much larger, but we have cut it down on 
the theory that we wish every rose contained therein 
to be the very best of its kind, or to have some 
special merit. For this reason there may be some 
few roses which it will be thought we should have 
included, and, no doubt, we could have included 
more which might do well under certain conditions; 
but for average conditions, and particularly for the 
amateur rose grower, who does not wish a very 
large number of roses, this list will be found more 
than sufficient, and this book is especially written 
for such persons. 

All the best Hybrid Perpetuals are included in the 
list No. 3, the only Hybrid Perpetual being put in 
Nos. 1 or 2 being Frau Karl Druschki. No other 
Hybrid Perpetual will compare with Druschki as a 
bloomer, for, as a rule, the Hybrid Perpetuals 
bloom only in June for a short season. It is true 
that occasionally a flower or two will make its 
appearance in the autumn, but these blooms can- 
not be counted upon. 

44 



BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS 

In list No. 3 we have also included some weak- 
growing roses which have beautiful blooms; they 
are not perfectly hardy and, in addition, are weak 
growers, but are so distinct in the beauty of their 
bloom that they should be included in any large 
collection, particularly by a person understanding 
their failings. As an example of these roses Joseph 
Hill is perhaps the best known. It is a wonderful 
flower, of distinct and beautiful coloring, with 
nothing of its shade to compare with it, but it is 
such a weak grower that it would be hardly right 
to include it in list No. 2; to place it in list No. 1 
would be doing an injustice to those who wish a 
good all-round rose, such as list No. 1 is designed 
to contain. Also in list No. 3 are placed some 
single roses which, while good bloomers and of 
robust habit, are so much below the average in the 
form of their blooms that they should not be in- 
cluded in any list but No. 3. 

It has been aimed to cover, under the columns of 
the main list, the principal points of each rose. 
Under the greater number of headings the letters 

''A"— very good, '^C— fair, ''X"— failure, 

''B"— good, ''D"— poor, 

are used to describe each variety. 

Under the heading ''Form of Rose" the abbrevia- 
tion ''Si" indicates that the rose is single. 

45 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

Under the heading ''Size of Bloom" "L" — large, 
"M"— medium, ''S"— small. 

It will be readily understood that under "Growth," 
for example, all the roses marked "A" are not ab- 
solutely the same in growth, but for all practical 
purposes they form an approximate class under 
"A," all of which would come up to a certain stand- 
ard. This principle applies to all headings. It 
would be impossible, without using very many more 
classes, to define the small differences existing 
between the roses marked "A," ''B," ''C" or "D," 
but for all approximate purposes, and for general 
information, each letter or letters will divide the 
varieties into a class of nearly the same merit under 
each particular heading. In order to secure the data 
for so classifying each rose, under the various head- 
ings, careful notes have been taken for years, and 
the average of each rose so tested has been noted. 
As an example, Killarney, in list No. 1, is marked 
"C" as to foliage. The reason for this is that in 
very damp weather of long duration the fohage of 
Killarney is more liable to mildew than that of many 
varieties, or if Killarney is watered late in the day 
mildew occurs. In ordinary seasons, and with proper 
watering and other care, the foliage of Killarney 
will do well, but mildew is a faihng of this very good, 
all-round rose and should be noted. 

46 



BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS 

Under size of bloom all the roses under ''M" 
(which stands for medium) could not be expected 
to be of a uniform size, but approximately they are 
the same. Concerning the blooming, as designated 
by the letters, it will be appreciated that, under 
certain conditions, roses will exceed or fall below the 
averages which we have decided upon. It would be 
impossible to give a list all the subdivisions of 
which would be absolutely correct under any and 
all conditions; but for all average working condi- 
tions our list will be found to be accurate, and by 
going over the same carefully, the reader should be 
able to decide just exactly what he may expect 
from any given rose. 

The roses marked ''A" for hardiness indicate 
that as a rule the wood does not winter kill enough 
to prevent their being pruned as recommended. 
Among the Hybrid Perpetuals, the canes in the 
spring will be less winter killed than the Hybrid 
Teas; but as you are pruning to at most six or 
seven eyes in the very strongest of the Hybrid Teas, 
and as low down as two or three eyes, you will find 
that in the varieties marked ''A," as to hardiness, 
the wood will be living beyond this point; and, 
therefore, while in reality the Hybrid Teas marked 
"A" are not as hardy in the amount of wood left, 
as the Perpetuals, nevertheless we mark them 

47 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

"A" because the plants do not die, and, in addi- 
tion, because there is enough wood for us to cut to 
the proper number of buds. 

Those marked "B" are roses which are Hkely to 
kill back below the proper pruning mark, and some- 
times show a death here and there, while those 
marked ''C" are roses among which you may expect 
to find a few deaths and more winter killing. 

There are no roses in the list which are down as 
low as ''D" for hardiness. Hardiness is of the first 
moment, and we do not include any roses which are 
not fairly hardy. Roughly speaking, under '^A" you 
should not lose over one per cent, from winter killing; 
under "B" from two to three per cent., and under 
"C" from five to ten per cent. 

Last year with a new shipment of a thousand roses, 
chiefly new varieties, we have lost in our entire rose 
garden about twenty plants, or one per cent., and 
some of the new plants were very small and weak. 
This immunity from deaths is due to the fact that 
we hill up our roses every autumn, as described in 
the chapter ''Cultivation." 

The color descriptions of the blooms in our main 
list are taken from the catalogue of Alexander 
Dickson & Sons, Ltd. We have noted where there 
is a very marked difference between this list and our 
flowers. 

48 



BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS 

In marking for "stem" v/e refer to the carrying of 
the flower; a long strong stem is marked "A," short 
stems and those not able to sustain the weight of 
the bloom are marked ''B," etc. "Form" has been 
marked for the length and beauty of the bud and 
also for the substance of the open flower; petallage 
and size have both been considered; short buds and 
blooms which open singly or flat are marked "B," 
etc. "Lasting" refers entirely to the keeping quali- 
ties both before and after cutting. 

"Color" is marked for the clearness and beauty of 
the color of each rose; "B" or "C" are used if the 
rose is either somewhat muddy or verges on a sol- 
ferino shade, which is not considered of the first 
beauty in roses. 

Where two letters are used it will be understood 
that the description in question will range, for 
instance: from "B" — good to "A" — very good, etc. 

The last two right-hand columns are a handy 
reference for planting and pruning, and the distances 
for planting may be followed implicitly. 

The pruning column will be understood after the 
chapter "Pruning" is read; "D. W." in this column 
stands for dead wood. 

The Main List referred to will be found on the following pages. 



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ote illustration 
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Creamy silver pink; center salmon 
pink. Great petallage; bloom 
heavy, stem usually drooping. 
Disbud. 


Note illustration. Not as good a 
bloomer as Killarney and with the 
same foliage. Disbud. 


a 

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times a fine grower — often small. 
Practically no disbudding. 

R Smith 


73 M 

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Very dark crimson; purely a col- 
lector's rose. Disbud. 

ILLOWMERE 

Rich shrimp pink, shaded yellow 
in the center and toning to cream 

Vigorous growth and erect branch- 
ing habit; long carmined coral red 
bud. Only tested one year; but so 
Far exceedingly satisfactory. Prefer 
it to either Lyon or L. C. Breslau. 


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66 



Ill 

CLIMBERS 

In the list which we have just given in the pre- 
ceding chapter we have not included any climbing 
roses, as we desire to take these up separately. 

Unfortunately there is not at this time any 
good, all-round climbing rose which blooms through 
spring, summer and autumn with great reliabihty. 
There are climbing roses which are advertised so to 
bloom, but although we have tried out all of these, 
we cannot recommend any for the Middle Atlantic 
States and farther north as having this very desir- 
able habit to a marked degree, combined with 
other necessary merits. 

There are dwarf climbers which bloom quite well 
through the summer, but they are so very small 
that they are only useful as borders to large beds 
and we do not include them. 

For the same reason that we have cut down our 
main list to the most dependable varieties, we have 
also cut this climbing hst down to those roses which 
we know will succeed. It would be very easy to 
include a great many more which we have tried 

67 



oiirnooii i:<>si; ckowinc 

Mini louiul l.'iirly ;;uc(*<n;;;IuI. 1>u( wc ;;1):i1I conruK- llir 
list lt> llit>;u' climlxM;; \\ hull we know will |>r*»\(> 
inosl icli.iMc lor llu' person drsiriiif, m lew ol lliis 
cl.'is;; only. 

In oi«l(M- ii^ ni.iKe llu' ;;ul)|<"ci ns clc'ir n;; [)o;;;;il)l<', 
\\<' sli.ill (li\ nl(" .ill (lie \;irioii:; climlMMS iii(o (wo 
cImSHOS; iliiH in .Mil :il);;oliiicIy .'irbil r.'iry ili\ isioii .mikI 
not .mI nil in .Mccordnnci" >\i(li llie ordin.'UN ni.'innrr 
{>{ clMssiliC'il ion. 

In «)iir In;! (ii\i;;ioii we ;;li:ill incliuU' ( 'limbint-'; 
llybiitl Tc'i:; .'iiul ;;onu' oilier elnnlxMs whoiu- Mooium 
li;i\«' llu- r.ener.il ili.ipe .miuI si.c ol i\\c llyhrid TeM 
r08<v llyl>ii(l Vc:\ (InnlxM;; ;ire nioslly, MS li.MS been 
(*\[>l;iine(l liereloloii". spoils Ironi M'ly \v<'ll known 
llybritl IV.i roses. Tlu^y i\i^ not l)lo«>ni .•l^^ piol'usi'ly 
•IS I he llyhrid Tc'is not" Ms eonsl.'inlly . They m.ny he 
(lepeiuled upon lo (',i\e i\{HH\ blooms in lln' sprins';, 
:uul .'1 lew oilier bloonu; nuiinly in llie .•inhiinn, .m1 
llionrji Ihese .*ire r^i) se:illere<l lli.il I hey e.Miinol be 
e;illetl eonlinn;illy blooniinr, roses. In .•ukUlion (o 
ihose we \\:\\c inehitled one or I wo ol her rosi^s w hieh, 
.MH sl.'ileti btMore, h;i\(' the I lybrid Te.'i lorni til" bloom ; 
nnlorl nn.ilely I hey bloom only in the s|»rin!'; .'Uid 
h.'i\(* [>r.'i(t le.'iUy iu> bloom I lieie;iller, bnl \\c Uiwc 
inehided I hem bec.uise of I heir rreul be.Miily. 

.\i;i>s. Iv()\ I'K. Hybrid rerpeln.Ml ('limber; Alex. 
Piekr;on ;uh1 Sons; IS'.)S. ( 'olor is crimson sh.'ided 

<iS 



CLIMBERS 

maroon; medium size, good form; blooms in the 
spring only; flowers come on short stems; has a fair 
petallage and is very fragrant. A hardy rose but 
in the North it is advocated that the canes sljould 
be given winter protection. 

Christine Wright. Hoopes Bros, and Thomas, 
of West Chester, Pa.; 1903. Cross between Carohne 
Testout and a Wichuraiana seedling. Placed with 
Hybrid Tea climbers on account of the fact that its 
flowers are large and double; borne singly and in 
clusters; good form, with a perfect bud and good 
petallage; color is wild rose pink; requires no protec- 
tion; blooms best in spring. A few scattering flowers 
in autumn, A very satisfactory climbing rose. 

Climbing Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. Hybrid 
Tea; two firms claim introduction; 1897. Primrose 
of same form and color as the dwarf rose of the same 
name; very beautiful, but only gives scattering 
blooms throughout the season. Requires heavy 
winter protection. 

Climbing Lady Ashtown. Hybrid Tea ; Bradley ; 
1910. Salmon pink, not quite as good form as the 
dwarf rose of the same name; gives fair amount of 
bloom in spring and an occasional bloom during 
summer and early autumn. Requires heavy winter 
fjrotection. 

69 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant. Hybrid Tea; 
William Paul and Son; 1899. Imperial pink; me- 
dium to large and good form; blooms fairly well in 
the spring with scattering blooms in the summer and 
autumn. Requires heavy winter protection. 

Climbing Richmond. Hybrid Tea; Alex. Dick- 
son and Sons; 1912. Pure red scarlet; bloom similar 
to the ordinary dwarf Richmond; of fair form only 
and blooming less freely in the autumn and summer 
than in the spring. Requires heavy winter protection. 

Dr. Van Fleet. Peter Henderson & Co.; 1910. 
Reported to be a cross between a Wichuraiana and 
Souv. du President Carnot. It is a Hybrid Wichu- 
raiana, but on account of the form of the bloom we 
put it with the Hybrid Tea climbers. This rose is 
more hardy than the Hybrid Tea climbers and is of 
a soft flesh tint shading to delicate peach pink; gives 
a bloom on somewhat longer stem than the average 
climber; blooms well in the spring and scattering 
blooms thereafter. Foliage very good. 

Dr. Van Fleet has brought out through Lovett of Little Silver, 
N. J., another Wichuraiana Hybrid named "The Mary Lovett Rose," 
a cross between a seedling Wichuraiana and Kaiserin Augusta 
Victoria and termed a White Dr. Van Fleet. Although not yet 
tested by us we believe it will prove an important addition. 

Reine Marie Henriette. Hybrid Tea; Levet; 
1878. Madame B^rard (of Gloire de Dijon) X 

70 



CLIMBERS 

General Jacqueminot. Deep cherry red; blooms 
prolifically in the spring, the flowers being of good 
form and petallage and fragrant; later in the season 
it occasionally gives blooms in sununer and autmnn. 
Requires winter protection in the North only. 

There are quite a number of the Hybrid Tea 
climbing sports, but those given above represent 
the main shades. There is very little to choose 
between any of them. They are all of approxi- 
mately the same habit, growth, and blooming 
qualities. 

Unfortunately there are no yellow climbing Hy- 
brid Teas which we can recommend. Madame 
Hector Leuillot is a yellow climbing Hybrid Tea 
but its canes winter kill, and although the plant 
lives we consider it a collector's rose and have so 
placed it in the main list. 

In our second division we have placed all the 
other climbing or rambling roses which have given 
us the best results, most of them being Hybrid 
Wichuraiana. Except where noted they are abso- 
lutely hardy and of much more vigorous growth 
than the Hybrid Tea climbers, though as a rule 
they only bloom for a short season in the early 
summer and a few have some autumn or sum- 
mer flowers. With these we have also included 
the best of the many other varieties of climbers 

71 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

which have given us very good results, and one of 
these — climbing Cecile Brunner — we have found to 
to be the most constant bloomer we have tried. 

Cecile Brunner. Polyantha Hybrid; sprays; 
beautifully formed, small. This rose, if secured in 
three-year-old plants and given heavy winter pro- 
tection, has proved in our experience the best 
bloomer among climbing roses. It is not as vigorous a 
climber as the Wichuraianas, but makes good growth 
of eight- to ten-foot canes, on which its miniature, 
perfectly-formed flowers appear in sprays. The 
color is flesh cream with a shell pink center. It must not 
be confounded with the dwarf Polyantha of the same 
name. On account of its blooming qualities it is our 
own favorite climbing variety, as it maybe expected to 
bloom splendidly in the spring, quite well in summer, 
and also in autumn. There are a few other climbing 
Polyanthas already catalogued, and several new roses of 
this class have been introduced during the present year. 

Another climbing Polyantha which has done well for some 
growers is Climbing Clothilde Soupert. Unfortunately our plants 
of this variety have winter killed badly; but with special winter 
protection it should live up to its reputation as a constant bloomer, 
and south of Philadelphia it will do well. The blooms are double, 
the color silver flesh to shell pink. 

Dorothy Dennison. Hybrid Wichuraiana; Den- 
nison; 1909. Trusses, very light pink; sport of 
Dorothy Perkins. 

72 



CLIMBERS 

DoEOTHY Perkins. Hybrid Wichuraiana; Per- 
kins; 1902. Trusses, single, light pink. 

Eliza Robichon. Hybrid Wichuraiana; Barbier; 
1901. Trusses, single; rose, shaded old gold. 

Evangeline. Hybrid Wichuraiana. Walsh; 1907. 
Single, white, tips of petals carmine pink. 

ExcELSA. Hybrid Wichuraiana. Walsh; 1909. 
Trusses, double, brilliant scarlet. Crimson Rambler 
with good foliage. 

Gardenia. Hybrid Wichuraiana. Manda; 1899. 
Clusters, bright yellow, paler as flowers expand; very 
pretty in bud form. Fohage very good. This rose 
can be secured from Henry A. Dreer, Philadelphia, 
Pa. Do not confound it with Gardenia of Soupert 
& Notting, which is inferior ^dth us. 

Hiawatha. Hybrid Wichuraiana. Walsh; 1905. 
Single, crimson, center pure white to cream. 

White Dorothy. Hybrid Wichuraiana. Paul & 
Son, and B. R. Cant & Sons; 1908. \\Tiite; sport of 
Dorothy Perkins. 

In addition to the above well-tried climbers there 
are three listed in the catalogue of M. H. Walsh, 
Woods Hole, Mass., which appeal to us. We have 
not tried them as yet, but from the descriptions they 
are unique or late bloomers. They are all seedling 

73 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

Hybrid Wichuraianas introduced by Walsh and the 
descriptions are his. 

CoQUiNA. "Shell pink; base of petals creamy 
white; produces blooms in September." 

Debutante. "Soft pink. Blooms freely in July 
and in September and October." 

La Fiamma. "Flame-colored." 

It must be remembered that in Massachusetts 
the season is shorter and starts later than with us 
and that a rose may bloom there in September which 
farther south ends its season in August. 

For climates in which there is little or no frost 
we are glad to recommend the following climbers. 
With the exception of Shower of Gold, which is a 
Hybrid Wichuraiana, they may be expected to 
give blooms quite well through the season. 

Celine Forestier (Noisette). Trouillard; 1842. 
Fairly free flowering; old gold. 

Cloth of Gold (Noisette). Coquereau; 1843. 
Sulphur yellow, deeper center; large double. 

Gloire de Dijon (Tea). Jacotot; 1853. Buff, 
orange center; large and double. Perhaps the hardi- 
est of the Tea climbers. 

MarechalNiel (Noisette). Pradel; 1864. Bright 
rich golden yellow; large, full, fine form. 

74 



CLIMBERS 

Madame Alfred Caeeiere (Hybrid Noisette). 
Schwartz; 1879. Pure white, very free; a good 
pillar rose. 

W.A.Richardson (Noisette). Ducher;1878. Very 
deep orange-yellow; small, very showy and distinct. 

Shower of Gold. Hybrid Wichuraiana. Paul 
and Son; 1910. Light cream to pale yellow; spring 
only; foliage fair. 

In addition to these there are quite a number of 
Climbing Teas and Noisettes. 

planting climbers 

In planting chmbers the bed should be prepared 
in exactly the same way as for an ordinary bed, 
excepting that it should be much smaller, but the 
roots of the climbers will naturally take up more 
space underground than the roots of the dwarf 
bushes, and climbers should have a bed of some 
extent. This is particularly necessary for the Hybrid 
Tea Climbers; Wichuraianas are so hardy that they 
will do very well if given even a fair start. The 
bed should be made of the same depth and drained 
as the average rose bed noted under '' Preparation." 
For each plant the bed should be about two feet 
wide and not less than four feet in length. 

In planting climbers, especially the Hybrid Teas, 

75 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

it is hardly necessary to say that they will not do 
well on the north side of any arbor or wall. Roses 
must have the sun in order to flourish and, besides, 
many climbers on a north wall would be winter 
killed to a very great degree. It would be easy in 
the case of all rustic benches, with rustic tops and 
arbors running east and west, to plant roses on their 
southern, eastern and western sides and secure 
plants which would entirely cover the structures. 
For an ordinary six-foot bench with a rustic top 
the same length, one good climbing rose planted on 
the southern side would be sufficient to cover the 
entire structure. The very hardiest of the Wichu- 
raianas would make a brave effort to do well on a 
north wall, but unless this is the only available 
space we would not advise its use. There is one 
exception to north wall planting, as explained later. 

PRUNING CLIMBERS 

WiCHURAiANA Climbers. About the last of 
July or the first of August, when the blooming 
season is over, it is well to cut out some of the oldest 
canes; this gives new wood a better opportunity to 
develop and it becomes the flowering wood of the 
following season. The older wood on Wichuraiana 
blooms to some extent but not as well as the growth 
of the previous year. After this August pruning it 

76 



CLIMBERS 

will hardly be necessary in the following spring to 
do more than cut out the dead wood and keep the 
plant within the prescribed bounds, which may be 
determined by the arbor or trellis on which it is 
grown. The new canes springing from the base 
which have grown during the previous season 
should remain untouched, excepting that the ends 
or tops of the longest canes should be somewhat 
shortened. The same process used in pruning re- 
cently planted Hybrid Teas applies in the case of 
newly-planted Wichuraiana, and especially weaker- 
growing climbers planted the previous autumn, 
viz., pruning back "wickedly" in the spring to a 
few eyes. This gives the roots less work to do and 
insures good growth for the following year. It gives 
no chance for flowers during the first summer, but at 
best the blooms on a newly-planted climber would be 
poor; the great point is that such cutting back gives 
the plant a better chance to become established and 
secures good flowering wood the second year and 
thereafter. But, if you insist upon trying for some 
flowers the first summer on newly-planted stock, be 
sure that such climbers as you do not cut back have 
well-estabHshed root systems with fibrous feeding 
roots and that they were planted the previous autumn, 
their root systems having been noted at that time. 
Under no circumstances should we advise allow- 

77 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

ing the canes to remain uncut on any imported 
climbers of winter or early spring planting, and 
we cannot recommend the course above suggested, 
though if it succeed with any variety it should do 
so with the Wichuraiana. With two- and three-year- 
old dormant American field-grown plants of Wichura- 
iana or its strong growing hybrids there is an even 
chance of success. INIost certainlj^ it would be well 
to give such plants special care, for example, the 
use of liquid manure as suggested in "Cultivation." 

It is not necessary except in the extreme North to 
give w^inter protection to the canes of Wichuraiana; 
however, if you find that the}^ die back, bend them 
down to the ground in the future and cover with 
earth before the severe frosts set in. 

In "Roses and Rose Growing,"* Miss Kingsley 
suggests for special effect cutting out all the old 
wood on Wichuraiana and training the pliant, new 
canes over wire frames in the shape of arches. 
Undoubtedly very pretty effects could be obtained 
by this method. She also states that the Banksias, 
some of the INIultifloras such as Crimson Rambler, 
and one Noisette, Fortune's Yellow, "only flower 
on the sub-laterals, i.e., on wood three years old." 
We knew that Crimson Rambler needed practically 

* "Roses and Rose Growing," by Rose G. Kingsley (The Mac- 
millan Co.). 

78 



CLIMBERS 

only thinning, but were ignorant of the interesting 
fact regarding the sub-laterals. It will be readily 
understood how easily the above-named climbers 
could be spoiled by unintelligent pruning. 

Hybrid Tea and Hybrid Perpetual Climbers (other 
than sports) and Polyantha Climbers should be 
treated on somewhat the same principle as the 
Wichuraiana Climbers. The difference is that their 
wood winter kills more easily, and therefore no thin- 
ning out of old canes should be done before spring, 
and then only when such canes crowd the new 
growths. The laterals on the main canes should be 
cut back to from two to four eyes. 

Climbing Sports of dwarf roses. Tea Climbers and 
Noisettes should be pruned more sparingly. Old 
canes should only be removed as they become profit- 
less, laterals but slightly shortened unless they are 
crowded. In the case of all climbers better results 
will be obtained if they are carefully and system- 
atically trained and fastened in place. Most Hybrid 
Tea Climbers, Noisettes, and all the Teas need 
winter protection, as above described. 

For all climbers, on account of the greater evapo- 
ration due to their larger growth, much more water 
is necessary than for dwarfs. 

We strongly recommend for them the peat moss 
mulch, noted later. 



IV 

LOCATION AND PREPARATION 

Every one cannot have an idea) location for 
roses, yet given enough sunhght it is astonishing 
what fine results may be obtained in a small bed 
bordering on a path or road should no lawn space be 
available. Too much shade will not give good re- 
sults and the roots of trees are very detrimental to 
rose growth. Unless the trees overhang the beds, 
if you believe your plants will get direct sunlight at 
least half the day — there being no other place avail- 
able—the chances are that your bed will succeed, 
but you must protect the rose roots from the roots 
of the trees. As a general rule a tree sends out roots 
in a circumference the radius of which equals its 
height, but the roots near the outer edge of the 
circumference are small and can be cut without 
injury to the tree; nevertheless where tree roots 
once grew they will come back again, and it is im- 
perative that the roses be protected from them. The 
simplest and cheapest way is to line the outside of 
your rose bed with boards, but as these rot it is only 
a question of time before the tree roots will again 

80 



LOCATION AND PREPARATION 

force their way into the space reserved for the roses, 
so the boards must be renewed. The best way is 
to put in a small wall of concrete four inches in 
thickness, which will protect your bed for all time 
from this interference of tree roots. 

Providing your roses get at least half a day's sun- 
light and the tree roots do not interfere, the bed can 
be successfully made as above proposed. The ideal 
location is a south to southeast exposure, especially 
with a windbreak on the north and northwest sides 
from which the coldest winter winds come. Wind- 
breaks may be in the form of trees, houses, or any- 
thing which will stop the direct force of the cold, 
bleak winds. Roses will do well even on a north 
slope if they get the sun and are properly cared for. 
Worse than a north slope is low land, which is not 
and cannot be easily drained, and where roses will 
get more late frost than they will on the exposed 
hillside. 

Having looked over your ground and selected, in 
accordance with the general working directions 
given above, the most suitable place for your roses, 
consider next the shape of the bed, the extent of 
space to be given to it and the number of plants 
it will accommodate. Unless formal or landscape 
gardening is desired the most practical form of bed 
for roses is one three feet wide (the proper width 

6 81 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

for two rows of plants), and long enough to accom- 
modate the number of plants desired when they are 
spaced at an average distance of eighteen inches, 
center to center. Some of the weaker growing roses 
will do better if set only twelve inches apart, while 
the stronger growing varieties should be placed as 
far apart as three feet; but for a working rule, unless 
you expect to order only the very largest roses, an 
allowance of eighteen inches each will be found to 
give roughly the number of plants which your bed 
will hold.* 

Having decided on the number of plants which 
you want before proceeding with the actual order- 
ing of the varieties, instructions for which will be 
found in the following chapter, consider what steps 
are necessary to make the beds properly and have 
them in absolute readiness for the arrival of the 
plants. They should be made some weeks before 
planting to allow for settling and if they should have 
settled too much below the ground level additional 
soil may be added, although to conserve moisture 
the actual finished level of the bed should be from 
one-half to one inch below the surface of the adjacent 
ground. 

* "Pictorial Practical Rose Growing," by Wright, gives four very- 
clever sketches for formal rose gardens. "Gardens for Small Country 
Houses," by Gertrude Jekyll and Lawrence Weaver, would be a 
great help to ^ny one desiring to do more than lay out a few beds. 



LOCATION AND PREPARATION 

The matter of soil, or of the best composition of 
soil, for the rose bed is a very interesting one, and 
when a person wishes to go into rose growing on a 
large scale beds should be constructed for each 
particular kind of rose. 

Pemberton goes most thoroughly into this subject 
of soils ; any one contemplating the planting of several 
hundred roses will do well to study his chapter on 
soils. He advocates for roses, where autumn blooms 
are desired, from forty to seventy per cent, of clay 
in the bed, and this statement of his has been borne 
out by our experiments with different soils. 

The most complete and technical book on this 
subject which we have found is: ''Soils," Lyon and 
Fippin; L. H. Bailey, editor. 

A rule which seems to be endorsed by all rosarians 
is that Hybrid Perpetuals and the stronger Hybrid 
Teas do better in clay, and the weaker Hybrid Teas 
and Teas are more certain to thrive in soil containing 
some sand. 

At the present time, Mr. Frederick W. Taylor, of 
Philadelphia, is conducting a great many interesting 
and exhaustive experiments with different kinds of 
soils, particularly in relation to the growing of grass 
but to some extent in testing roses. Some of his 
beds have been made up in most complicated and 
expensive ways, and while good results have been 

S3 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

secured, nevertheless, from careful comparison be- 
tween his roses and those in our ordinary beds, we 
cannot see enough advantage gained to warrant 
our recommending his beds for general use, primarily 
on account of the expense and trouble involved in 
their construction. No doubt Mr. Taylor will event- 
ually discover the best beds for each given type of 
rose, changes in the beds being made in accordance 
with the different habits of growth of the plants. 
If these new beds are to be brought before the rose- 
growing public, most certainly they should have the 
advantage of being explained by their originator and 
not by us. It is our opinion that for the average rose 
lover who wants to grow his few dozen plants, such 
experiments, while interesting, would not as yet be 
practical and would certainly be very expensive. It 
is far better to order the best roses as carefully tested 
in the regular beds, and to construct beds from which 
good all-round and practical results may be obtained 
at a moderate cost. There is, however, one new 
feature of Mr. Taylor's experiments which seems 
very practical and useful and is so simple that we 
take great pleasure (with his permission) in recom- 
mending it for rose beds, i.e., the covering of the 
bed in the spring with a blanket of peat moss. 
This is a non-conductor of heat and cold, and will 
not only keep the moisture in the ground by pro- 

84 



LOCATION AND PREPARATION 

tecting it from the sun's absorbing rays but also 
greatly reduce the actual temperature of the bed. 

In July and August the ground temperature of 
beds covered with this mulch is from five to six 
degrees lower than adjacent beds. Later, when the 
average ground temperature is below seventy, there 
is little if any difference. In addition to this it 
prevents some seeds of weeds from germinating, so 
that this cover practically eliminates constant weed- 
ing. It also gives the beds a neat and most attrac- 
tive appearance. The best time to put on this peat 
moss is as yet an undecided point, but we are inclined 
to recommend placing the moss on the beds after 
the frost is well out of the ground and before the 
days become very warm. Undoubtedly after this 
year, in which we shall try covering different beds at 
different times, this new operation will be better 
understood. 

This peat moss may be secured from any nursery, 
and it should be ground fine by a machine, then 
sprinkled with water before it is placed on the beds, 
to keep it from blowing about. By putting on a six- 
inch blanket you will secure the depth required of 
from three to four inches. 

In order to avoid breaking the rose canes the 
safest way to pack the moss properly into place is 
to trample on it carefully. It will be found that the 

85 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

roses so covered will give bloom about as early as 
plants left unprotected by moss, and during the 
hottest weather the covered plants will thrive to a 
greater degree while the moss renders watering less 
necessary, and thereby somewhat prevents the likeli- 
hood of mildew. 

The beds we have tested with and without moss 
show that the covered plants bloom only one day 
later, but hold the bloom much longer. 

In some of our beds we are putting a four-inch 
layer of peat moss at each side of the bed and at 
the ends, which should still further act in keeping 
the temperature low. We do not think this neces- 
sary, but in districts where dry, hot weather of long 
duration occurs, and in seashore planting, where 
soil must be imported, and where the existing, ex- 
tremely sandy soil surrounding the rose bed becomes 
very hot, such side protection should be of great 
benefit. The moss should go from the surface to 
the bottom of the bed and make a four-inch wall 
between the bed and the hotter ground around it. 
Where cement or boards have been used to keep 
out tree roots, this side protection is, of course, 
unnecessary. 

Peat moss is worth about fourteen dollars a ton 
by the carload and one ton will cover over one 
hundred yards of rose beds, averaging three and one- 

86 



LOCATION AND PREPARATION 

half feet in width, the finished level of the moss being 
over three inches; in other words, two hundred 
pounds, at a cost of less than two dollars, would 
protect ten yards of rose bed, or about forty plants. 
The hundred-pound price is a little more expensive 
than the carload rate. 

To return to the composition of the bed itself. 
We have found that there are two most important 
things necessary to insure success: first, the bed 
must underdrain, to get rid of any great surplus of 
water, so that in very damp seasons the rose roots 
will not be too wet; second, the bed must, on the 
other hand, retain moisture to a certain extent so 
that in very dry seasons the roots will not be too 
dry. To obtain the drainage it is necessary in soil 
which is greatly composed of clay to underdrain 
the beds by a layer of crushed stone; where the soil 
is more open, gravelly or sandy, this is not needed. 
The bed should be made two and one-half feet in 
depth if underdrainage is necessary, with about six 
inches of crushed or broken stone put in the bottom; 
small crushed stone lies evenly, and the earth does 
not sift through it enough to clog the drainage. 
Large or uneven stone should be covered by some- 
thing to keep the earth from sifting through. If 
the bed is made in a lawn the turf cut from the sur- 
face and turned upside down is a good expedient, 

87 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

or a couple of inches of fine cinders will be found all 
that is required. Fine stone is really the best. Of 
course, for a location which is gravelly or sandy, this 
stone will not be needed and a depth of two feet will 
be sufficient. 

We will now consider that we have dug a trench, 
the bottom either covered or not covered with stone 
to the depth of six inches, as the case may be, but 
which is now two feet deep from the ground level. 
It should be noted that in digging this trench for 
the bed the top soil should be placed in one pile 
and the subsoil in another. The top soil is the soil 
on the surface, which runs to different depths, usually 
about six inches, and which is composed for the 
most part of decayed vegetation from the roots of 
many generations of grasses, etc. It contains a per- 
centage of humus and is, therefore, very valuable as 
food to the rose roots. Usually it is darker in color 
than the subsoil and can easily be noted. In soils 
where there is a large percentage of clay or loam it 
will not be necessary to use subsoil other than that 
taken from the trench, as far as one-third of the 
mixture to be put back into the bed is concerned; 
but where soil is very gravelly or sandy it would be 
best to secure some heavy loam or clay to make the 
proper kind of bed. The finished bed should be 
one-third top soil, one-third heavy clay subsoil, and 

88 



LOCATION AND PREPARATION 

one-third cow manure. There will not be enough 
top soil taken from the trench to supply the one- 
third necessary for the bed, and more must be 
provided. 

In localities where there is no heavy clay or loam 
there will often be found heavy, dark soil which 
contains decayed leaves, roots, etc., which is a very 
good substitute. Subsoil containing sand in any 
quantity should have loam and clay added and top 
soil containing much sand should have other top 
soil added. Reverting to what we have said before, 
and so as to make our objects perfectly clear, it will 
be remembered that the soil should be heavy enough 
to hold moisture, be rich enough for sustenance, and 
yet must drain at the bottom, as otherwise in wet 
seasons the plants will be too damp. 

The ideal way to mix the top soil, clay and manure 
in three equal parts would be by machine, but for 
all practical purposes we have found the following 
procedure to be all that is necessary: Cover the 
bottom of the trench with a given number of wheel- 
barrow loads of the rich, darker top soil, then add 
the same number of loads of the lighter, clayey sub- 
soil, and then an equal number of loads of manure, 
after which the whole bed should be forked together 
thoroughly to mix the ingredients. After this first 
layer is thoroughly mixed, proceed as above with the 

89 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

wheelbarrow loads of each ingredient and mix again. 
After each mixing the bed should be thoroughly 
raromed, other\\4se it will settle too much after it is 
finished. 

In addition to the above, we would advocate adding, 
for every twenty-five feet of bed, the following : one 
bucket of lime, evenly distributed, to be added after 
the first layer is mixed, and one bucket of bone meal, 
evenly distributed, to be added before the last layer 
is put in. 

When making beds for autumn planting it would 
be well to realize that very often roses imported 
from the other side are delayed. The season may 
be very late with the European growers, and the 
leaves not fall from the plants until after our hesLvy 
frosts (which may be early ones) have frozen the 
ground. For this reason, when the beds are made 
the ground conditions must be carefully watched, 
and if frost appears they should be covered with a 
hesLYj fitter. This will usually protect the ground 
so that if the roses do not arrive until well into the 
autumn they may still be planted. We have suc- 
cessfully planted roses after hard freezing and six 
inches of snow in December, our beds having been 
covered with a heavy fitter before tfie snow fell. 
WTien planting we removed snow and litter and the 
following year our roses did weU. 



ORDERING 

Having gone carefully over the chapter on ''Varie- 
ties" and considered the lists of roses, the reader will 
be ready to order his plants. It is believed that the 
suggestions hereinafter given will aid in avoiding 
many of the errors and disappointments usually 
connected with this necessary work. 

Ordering is indeed one of the most important 
features to be considered; when properly done it 
insures success, and when improperly done it is 
sure to bring disappointment and to secure what is 
not desired. An understanding of the conditions 
which beset all nurser^mien would do much to help 
towards success. The main trouble is that the aver- 
age man does not properly specify just what he 
wants and when he wants it, nor what he desires 
done if the order cannot be filled exactly with 
each variety ordered. He does not consider sub- 
stitution. 

The nurser}Tnan receives his greatest number of 
orders in the spring and autumn when he and his 
clerks, his packers and his entire force are over- 
worked. He has only so many varieties and only 

91 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

so many plants of each, and his roses are in a cer- 
tain condition, which may or may not be good. 
Therefore the man who sends his order early, speci- 
fying exactly what he wants, stands the best chance 
of securing what he desires. Later orders, unless 
very specific, naturally are filled from what stock 
is left, not always with what was desired, and the 
fault does not rest with the nurseryman. If the 
order is properly made out and request is made for 
its immediate filling, and the nurseryman who re- 
ceives the order advises that he is unable to ship, 
then the purchaser has an opportunity to place his 
request elsewhere; but if the order is not properly 
made out and does not specify regarding substitu- 
tions the shipment may not be satisfactory. 

At the end of this chapter we supply a form of 
order blank which thoroughly covers the matter 
and which will greatly aid the reader. 

In ordering roses the following requisites should 
be specified: field-grown, two-year-old stock or if 
possible three-year-old stock; budded stock, not 
grafted or own-root roses, except perhaps in case of 
some climbing varieties; dormant stock. In addi- 
tion instructions should be given for substitutions. 

Ordinarily dormant roses are much better for 
either spring or autumn delivery; but if roses are 
ordered after the growing season has started it is 

92 



ORDERING 

impossible to get dormant plants. In our opinion 
plants which have started growth are uncertain but 
with care will often do well. 

If the ordering is done in the fall and the roses 
are so late in coming that although the beds have 
been covered with litter the ground is frozen hard 
to some depth and it is impossible to plant them, 
do not, under any circumstances, have them kept 
indoors during the winter; for they will then generally 
sprout and, if planted early, will be set back by the 
late frosts, or if kept until later will be set back on 
account of their change after growth has started. 
It would be wiser to heel the plants in the open 
ground; that is, dig a trench deep enough to cover 
the roses half-way up the canes and place the plants 
therein, filling in with dry earth. 

As we believe that the greater number of budded 
roses can be properly secured from almost any large 
nurserjrman, the nearest one would perhaps be the 
best from whom to order. The roses budded by 
Alex. Dickson & Sons, of Ireland, whom every 
nurserjonan knows, are as good as any foreign roses 
and will include most varieties. We feel, after 
having planted many of Dicksons' budded roses, 
that we can safely recommend them, though by so 
doing we do not wish to condemn the budded foreign 
roses of any other grower; we simply have not tried 

93 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

them to any great extent because we have always 
been satisfied with Dicksons' stock, Dr. Robert 
Huey having used it for over thirty years and we 
also having tested it for nearly fifteen. 

Recently, as we have mentioned in ''Propagation," 
there have been some American firms who have 
tried budding on Japanese Multiflora. We have 
grown some of these plants for a number of years 
past and have had very good success with them. 

In ordering from such growers the planter has the 
advantage of securing stock more or less acclimated, 
and does not run the risk of having the heat of the 
steamers sprout plants directly imported; he is 
dealing with firms close at hand and is also aiding 
an American enterprise. 

We, therefore, suggest that when the desired varie- 
ties may be secured, the same can be obtained from 
the following growers, who are budding on the 
Japanese Multiflora. There may be other firms 
unknown to us who are using this stock, but at the 
present time these budded plants may be secured 
from George H. Peterson, Fairlawn, N. J.; Henry 
A. Dreer, Inc., Riverton, N. J.; Bobbink & Atkins, 
Rutherford, N. J. Peterson was the first to our 
knowledge to grow it to any extent, and while it is 
not mentioned in his catalogue as ''Japanese Multi- 
flora," we understand this is the stock used. 

94 



ORDERING 

The budding of roses by American firms is cer- 
tainly a great advance in rose culture and of inesti- 
mable value to our rose growers. Where it is possi- 
ble to secure the varieties desired, we recommend 
American field-grown plants, budded and grown out- 
of-doors by any well-known firm of nurserymen. 

For all large collections when American field- 
grown stock cannot be obtained, we would suggest 
that budded stock as grown by Alex. Dickson & 
Sons, of Ireland, be ordered from the nearest nur- 
seryman. When making inquiry or ordering we 
advise the use of blanks similar to those suggested 
by us. 

Out-of-doors a few roses budded on the Multi- 
flora do not give as perfect color as those budded 
on other stocks, and we believe an example of this 
to be the Lyon Rose. In our greenhouse the Lyon 
Rose on Japanese Multiflora gave splendid results, 
but outside the color was not always perfect; the 
Lyon Rose on other stocks does not succeed well in 
outdoor culture. This bears out the statement in 
the chapter on "Propagation" that different stocks 
should be used for different varieties, and that the 
best stocks for all roses have not yet been definitely 
decided. 

We particularly wish the reader to understand 
that the care which we have used in going into the 

95 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

matter of ordering and our remarks pertaining 
thereto are not meant in any way to reflect upon 
nurserymen, through many of whom we have re- 
ceived orders properly filled, and with whom our 
relations have been most pleasant. On the contrary, 
we show the purchaser the conditions under which 
the nurserymen labor and point out a practical 
way in which ordering may be done, so that there 
will be no disappointments to the purchaser, and 
that pleasant relations will be maintained between 
him and the grower or importer. We believe this 
explanation of conditions will help the nurseryman 
as well as the purchaser, for we are of the opinion 
that the errors which occur are generally the fault 
of the man who orders. 

In closing, we wish to add a few words regarding 
the different times of the year in which planting 
may be done. The temperature of the ground is 
as important as the time of year, and the condition 
in which the plant is received has more to do with 
future success than either. Unless the growing 
season has begun and is well under way plants 
must be received in a dormant condition. We 
ourselves have planted roses at all times of the year 
and have found that if the plants were in proper con- 
dition and properly handled they have nearly always 
done well; if plants were not in proper condition, no 

96 



ORDERING 

matter how much care was used, failure prac- 
tically always resulted unless plants received green- 
house care. 

The advantage of planting roses in the autumn 
is that if they are dormant, i.e., if growth has stopped 
for the year prior to their shipment, and if they 
have not been subjected to heat during shipment 
causing growth to recommence, they will when 
planted become more or less fixed in their position, 
and little fibrous roots will have in most instances 
commenced growth before spring. Roses so planted 
and which have become so established will start off 
well in the spring, much better than a rose which 
has only been in the ground a short time. 

Our advice to all planters with whom the expense 
of replacing dead plants is not of much moment is 
this: From October to May plant your roses as 
soon as you have decided that you want them. 
Undoubtedly, you will lose some if you plant after 
the growing season has begun; perhaps if you plant 
the last of the winter you will not secure as good 
roses as if you set out perfectly dormant plants in 
the late autumn, but no doubt a great many of 
them will come through and be better plants the 
following year than if you had waited, say from the 
early spring to the following autumn. In addition 
to this there is the pleasure of having the roses. 

7 97 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 



SUGGESTED FORMS FOR INQUIRY AND ORDER 
BLANKS . 

Can you supply in two- or three-year-old 
dormant field-grown, budded plants the 
following roses: 

(LIST OF ROSES) 

In the event of not having all the above 
varieties, what plants can you substitute 
which comply with the above requirements? 



On what date can you ship? 

Kindly answer at once, using enclosed 

addressed and stamped envelope 

If answer is to hand by 5'^!*."'? , I will, 

if satisfactory, at once place order; other- 
wise I will not consider same. 

This is an inquiry — NOT an order 



Note: In ordering climbing varieties other than Hybrid 
Teas leave out the word "budded." 
98 



ORDERING 

When a satisfactory reply is received the order 
should be placed and the following form is suggested : 

Please place my order for the following 

roses, as per my inquiry of (date) 

and your reply of (date) 

(LIST OF ROSES) 

I understand that the above-named roses 
are two- or three-year-old dormant field- 
grown, budded plants; that there are to 
be no substitutions; 
that they are to be shipped me on ... . (date) 

(LIST OF CLIMBERS) 

I understand that the climbers are own- 
root plants, otherwise they are as above 
specified. 



VI 

PLANTING 

Let us suppose that your beds are ready, your 
shipment has been ordered, and on one eventful 
morning it has arrived. You naturally take great 
pains to unpack carefully and to see that the varie- 
ties received check off properly with the order 
given. Sometimes one or more mistakes may be 
made in a large shipment, but as a usual thing 
great care has been exercised both in the selection 
and packing of your order, and it should arrive in 
good shape and the varieties should be as ordered. 
Very often the nurseryman will add a plant or two 
for good measure. The plants should be unpacked 
inside some building, unless perfect weather condi- 
tions prevail, viz., a damp, moist day — neither 
cold nor hot. After having been checked off, the 
plants should be carefully covered so that the roots 
will neither be frozen nor dried out by too much 
wind or heat. Usually the roses come packed in 
moss which should be left on them. If there is no 
moss, cover the roots with damp earth, and when 
taken outside keep them protected with any kind 
of wrapping, such as burlap or gunny sacks; or, 
better still, keep them in buckets or tubs of water, 

100 



PLANTING 

except in freezing weather, when you should not 
plant. This is most important so that the roots 
may be placed in the ground in proper condition. 
Before taking the roses to their beds you should 
have made a small plan of just how you propose 
to plant them; if for a formal or landscape effect 
this has no doubt been all arranged beforehand to 
suit your taste. If, however, you are merely planting 
them in the ordinary form of bed it is a very simple 
matter to have your bed arranged for their reception. 
You know what roses are coming, you have the 
distance apart in which they should be planted 
(covered in our main list), and you should decide 
on the order in which you wish to place them. 
Personally we prefer planting roses in alphabetical 
order, as we find that nature's colors never conflict 
and that it is the easiest way of telling where any 
particular rose is located. 

Your bed should be three feet wide for Hybrid 
Teas and Teas. For Hybrid Perpetuals and very 
strong growers four feet is better. You plant your 
roses ten inches from the edge of the bed and eigh- 
teen inches apart, and you do not plant them 
exactly opposite to one another; in other words, 
you ''stagger" them. You have two rows of plants, 
each row ten inches from the side of the bed. With 
one row you plant the first rose nine inches from the 

101 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 



end of the bed; with the other row you plant the 
first rose eighteen inches from the same end of the 
bed. This does not bring the plants opposite one 
another and gives them a trifle more room in which 
to grow, making them eighteen inches apart each 
way. For our own beds we make a drawing, as 
indicated by sketch below, which we find very easy 
to correct from time to time if a rose dies or is taken 
out for any reason and another substituted. Sup- 
pose, for example, you have decided to put in four 
roses each of the following: Antoine Revoire, 
Duchess of Wellington, General MacArthur, Kil- 
larney, and two each of Souv. du President Carnot 
and Joseph Hill. 



N-<- 



->S 



W 

Bed 
AADDGGJKKP 
AADDGGJKKP 

Introducer Date Color Notea 



Name 

A — Antoine Revoire 

D — Duchess of Wellington 
G — General MacArthur. . . 

J — Joseph Hill 

K — Killarney 

P — President Carnot. . . . . 



102 



PIANTING 

Make a compass drawing as outlined so that there 
may be no question as to which end of the bed you refer. 

This plan is suggested because labels are a delusion 
and a snare, do not last, and also become misplaced, 
so that while we keep labels in our beds we depend 
upon our written plan for positive information as 
to what each rose is, its location, etc.* It is but 
the matter of a few moments to make this record 
and the time so occupied will well repay you. 

Having run two lines ten inches from each side 
of the bed, and from one end to the other, you can 
then space off the proper point at which each rose 
is to be planted by a stake, which can be measured 
with ordinary rule or line. The roses which we have 
given are to be placed eighteen inches apart, with 
the exception of Joseph Hill, President Carnot, and 
Antoine Revoire, which are to be placed twelve and 
fifteen inches apart. Before starting work put on a 
pair of gloves to protect your hands from the thorns. 
Bring out but a few roses at a time, and, in order to 
avoid any possible mixing of the plants, each variety 
should be kept absolutely separate and planted at one 
time before the next kind is placed in the bed. 

*The most practical label is made as follows: Cover a wooden 
label with white lead paint. Write on label with a soft pencil while 
white lead is fresh. Allow the white lead to dry and then cover with 
outdoor varnish. Labels received with new stock will be rendered 
more lasting by the use of varnish. 

103 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

Sometimes rose roots are injured in the shipment, 
in which case it will be necessary to cut off the broken 
ends. A good pair of pruning shears and a sharp 
knife are the two best implements for this work. 
Cuts should be sharp and clean and the roots should 
be cut off above the break. It will only take a minute 
to examine each plant before it is actually set and 
to cut off broken roots and any suckers in which 
growth may have started. 

The thing to be most carefully considered, and 
most important in planting roses, is to dig a hole 
about eighteen inches deep, the center of which is 
approximately the center of the mark for the rose. 
The earth should be taken out with a spade from 
this hole and, before finally placing the earth in it, 
two things should be carefully noted: that the 
roots spread out at the bottom and do not cross one 
another. The more you spread out your roots the 
more sustenance the plant will get, and the more 
room there will be for the little fibrous roots. It is 
particularly difficult to spread out the roots of pot- 
grown plants, as they become curled in the pots; 
and this is one reason why pot-grown plants are 
not recommended. The other important point is 
that the bud, i.e., the point at which the variety has 
been budded to the stock, which you will easily 
note, should be at a certain given distance below 

104 



PLANTING 

the ground level. On these two factors depend 
the size of your excavation. The bud should be 
not less than two inches and not more than three 
inches below the finished level of the bed. This 
seems Uke getting down to very exact planting, but 
if the bud is higher it is not sufficiently protected in 
winter, and the rose does not do as well if it is planted 
lower. 

The hole being properly dug, place your rose in it, 
carefully spreading out the roots so that they do 
not cross or touch one another at any point. This 
will take some time and care, but it is of the greatest 
importance to the future growth of the rose that it 
be properly done. Two persons can do the work 
much better than one. In our own planting we 
always have a small bucket containing top soU and 
bone meal finely powdered in equal parts which we 
lightly sprinkle at the bottom of the hole and also 
on the roots; we have found this to be very helpful 
to their growth, because it precludes the possibility 
of any manure touching the roots (manure which is 
too fresh and not well rotted will burn them) -and 
promotes the growth of the very much to be de- 
sired fibrous feeding roots. After this preparation 
is put in, we have our helper shovel in the soil 
carefully, a fit tie at a time, to fill up the hole. As 
he puts it in, we tamp it firmly with a stick, and, 

105 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

as the hole gradually fills, we take particular care 
that there is no space left just underneath the main 
root of the plant, for air space is most detrimental 
to the growth of the rose. Having filled up the 
hole to the ground level of the bed, we consider the 
rose to be planted, and proceed to the next. When 
the first hole is dug, remove the earth and put it 
beyond the stake for the last hole, then use the earth 
from the second hole to fill around the first plant 
and so on; this saves much work and insures keeping 
the entire bed the same level. 

An easy way to get your approximate two and 
one-half inches below the ground for your bud is 
to have a lath or other straight piece of wood, in 
the center of which a two and one-half inch measure 
is nailed. This will enable you to secure an exact 
and proper depth for your bud. It seems as if 
this operation should be very simple, and it is, if 
the main points, as enumerated above, are carefully 
and absolutely carried out. 

These rules are so important for the future suc- 
cess of your plants that we again enumerate them: 

First, unpack indoors unless weather conditions 
are absolutely perfect. 

Second, keep the roots well covered, preferably 
with moss if they have been packed in it, otherwise 
with damp earth, or coverings, or water. 

106 



PLANTING 

Third, have your bucket containing a mixture of 
equal parts of top soil and bone meal to place 
around the roots. 

Fourth, take plenty of time in digging the hole to 
get it large enough and wide enough at the bottom 
to spread the roots properly. 

Fifth, do not let the roots cross one another. 

Sixth, plant carefully and slowly, tamping down 
the earth with a stick, making sure by gently raising 
and lowering as the earth is filled in that no air 
space remains below the main part of the root. 

Seventh, do not place the bud more than three 
inches or less than two inches from the finished 
surface of the bed. 

If it is impossible to finish your planting in any 
one day take particular care of the remaining roses. 
Keep them heeled in damp earth, or if the season is 
so late that you are unable to do this, keep them well 
covered indoors with soil. It is very easy to cover 
the finished beds with a heavy litter of manure 
and straw to keep the frost from them. If a quan- 
tity of soil is mixed and kept indoors ready for use, 
holes can be dug and the plants set in this soil as 
has been suggested in ''Location and Preparation." 
We have used this method successfully in the very 
late autumn and at the end of the winter. If plant- 
ing in the late autumn, it is well to protect the plants 

107 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

as much as you can. The best way to do this is to 
add a few wheelbarrow loads of soil to the beds 
after planting and make little mounds around each 
plant, hilling them up as it were, and then covering 
these with litter. If this is done the coarse litter 
should be removed in the early spring and the fine 
manure remaining should be forked carefully into 
the bed, as this will be a good fertilizer during the 
summer. In autumn planting you will generally 
find that rose plants have been cut back to about a 
foot from the ground, and if this is the case leave 
them as they are. If, however, they have the long, 
full growth they had when taken up or a large part 
of it, cut back to a foot and a half. 



VII 
PRUNING 

Pruning is one of the most important parts of 
rose culture; just as it is most necessary to prepare 
the ground properly and to plant intelligently, so 
also should one be certain to prune systematically. 
The whole growth of the plant is changed by the 
/manner of its pruning. 

Under climbing varieties we have given rules for 
their proper care and in this chapter we will take 
up that pruning which applies to all the roses con- 
tained in our main list. It is an easy matter when the 
theory of it is understood. Perhaps the simplest 
and clearest illustration which could be given would 
be to suppose a rose cane has fifteen buds or eyes 
on it; from these buds or eyes spring the shoots 
which afterward become the flower stalks of the 
plant. Now, if you did not prune at all but left 
the entire cane, the sustenance received from the 
roots would be divided into fifteen parts. As a 
matter of fact the greatest amount would go to the 
end or top of the cane and to those buds nearest 
the top, for in all plant life it is more difficult to get 
the sap to break the buds nearest the base, especially 

109 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

if there is too great a distance from that base to the 
top of the lateral, limb, or cane. 

Roses will differ in growth and the strongest 
growers will naturally throw out more buds on any- 
given length of cane than the weaker. In addition 
to this, plants of low spreading growth, whose canes 
grow more or less parallel to the ground, do not 
send their sap as quickly to the ends of the growth 
as do plants whose canes are more upright. For this 
reason different varieties require somewhat different 
pruning, and in our list we have given the number 
of eyes or buds to which each variety should be cut 
back, provided, of course, the wood has not been 
winter killed below the point indicated. Returning 
to the theory of the sap and the illustration of the 
cane with fifteen buds : we cut off, say, ten of these 
buds from the cane and the five remaining will 
receive just so much more sap and there will be that 
much more chance of the lowest buds breaking and 
sending out their shoots. If the cane were not cut 
the greater part of the sap would go to the few top 
buds and the lower buds would be late in growing, 
some possibly not breaking at all. Nature prunes 
the weaker varieties by killing back a portion of 
their wood, thus causing them to throw up strong, 
new canes. 

It will readily be understood that the larger the 

110 



PRUNING 

cane and the hardier and more vigorous the plant, 
the more buds could be left with still a chance for 
their breaking; conversely, the weaker the variety 
and the smaller the cane the less sap would be 
contained therein and the fewer buds would break 
and grow shoots in any given length of cane. This 
is the main theory of pruning roses, provided that 
it is reasonable quality, and not quantity without 
much quality, that one wants. 

The average rose plant in its second year should 
give from fifteen to fifty blooms, according to the 
variety, if it is cut back on this principle. Shy 
bloomers will not give fifteen flowers and the 
greater number of these will be borne in the spring. 

Usually a good bloomer will have three or four 
flowering periods, the most profuse being in the 
spring and early fall. Some of our records for 1914 
are as follows: 

Duchess of Wellington: June, thirteen flowers; 
July, eight flowers; August, ten flowers; September, 
sixteen flowers; total forty-seven. 

Madame Leon Pain: June, eleven flowers; July, 
six flowers; August, eight flowers; September, eight 
flowers; total thirty-three. 

Lady Alice Stanley will give twenty-five flowers; 
Killarney a few more; Mock not over twenty; 
General MacArthur twenty-five. 

" 111 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

These figures are made from average plants, not se- 
lected specimens, and the late bloom is not included. 

In counting blooms only those with fair stems are 
considered and the usual amount of disbudding done. 

If you desire more blooms of poorer quality you 
should not prune your roses as far back as suggested 
below. They will also require a certain amount 
of thinning out after the growing season starts so 
that the various shoots do not crowd each other too 
much. Except for the strongest varieties of roses 
w^hich are so pruned they should be staked, i.e., fas- 
tened to a stake driven firmly into the ground. If 
you so prune and stake do not use wire but tie the 
bushes to the stakes with soft woolen string. This 
latter course of pruning is usually carried out with 
roses of the bedding type, on which the blooms are 
seldom fine enough for cutting; but so treated the 
plants form a mass of color and are used for this 
reason for garden decoration. 

The best and usually accepted way of pruning 
roses for cutting is to prune for the finest blooms. 
As a general working rule prune the strongest varie- 
ties to five buds or eyes, about six to ten inches, on 
the main strong canes, the small weaker canes being 
cut to three or four eyes, about six inches. You 
can always make your plant grow in whatever 
direction you wish by cutting to a bud which leads 

112 



PRUNING 

in the desired direction; e.g., in order to spread 
your plant, if the fifth eye is on the inside of plant, 
cut to the eye above it if is a large cane, for the eye 
above is on the outside of the plant; or if the wood 
is somewhat smaller and weaker than the other 
canes on the plant cut to the outside eye below. 
In this way your plant will be spread out and the 
shoots will not all crowd together on the inside, as 
would be the case if you cut to inside eyes. It is 
always better to cut to an outside bud; although in 
special cases where you wish to throw a shoot in 
some other desired direction cut to the bud nearest 
the space you wish to fill with the new growth. 
With weaker varieties cut to three and four eyes on 
the stronger-growing canes, and to two and three 
eyes on the very weak ones. Each of these buds 
left on the cane should throw up flower stalks. 

In addition to this main theory, there are one or 
two other points which it is necessary to consider in 
pruning plants. They should not be too much 
crowded and the best way to prevent this is by 
cutting out the weakest growths. At first it may 
be somewhat difficult for one to be sure which cane 
should be removed, but by watching the plants 
after growth is started this will soon be readily 
understood. An absolute rule cannot be given for 
the number of canes to be left, but there must 

8 113 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

not be too much crowding, particularly in the 
center of the plant. All dead wood should also be 
removed. This can be easily detected and it should 
be cut back to the live wood, care being taken not 
to injure the bark of the latter and to make a clean, 
sharp amputation. 

Quite a number of varieties have the unfortunate 
habit of throwing out one or perhaps two very large 
growths on one side of the plant, the opposite side 
being correspondingly immature and weak. In such 
cases, in order to balance the plant, particularly for 
succeeding years, cut back the one or two large 
growths very ''wickedly," one or two eyes being the 
proper distance. Cut out all but the best of the 
remaining weaker stems, and after growth has com- 
menced do not allow the stalks on the strong canes 
to get beyond control. This treatment will serve 
to equalize the growths on such plants. In England, 
where the cold does not kill back the canes so far, 
the Hybrid Teas are pruned to a greater number of 
eyes. Pemberton, for example, advises leaving Caro- 
line Testout from two to three feet, but in our climate 
this rose would be killed back to from four to eight 
inches and in the north to an even greater degree. 

Pruning is usually done after the main body of 
frost has left the ground. Where frost does not 
occur the pruning should be done at the season of 

114 



PRUNING 

the year when the buds commence to break; even in 
climates where there is no frost roses will have a 
dormant season, and the time the buds begin to 
break will be the proper time to prune in such local- 
ities. Usually in such climates the dormant season 
of the rose is the time during which it does not get 
any water, that is, during the dry season. With the 
return of the rains the dormant plant commences 
further growth. This refers, of course, to climates 
in which there is practically no winter, i.e., no 
frost. 

When the buds begin to push out on all the living 
wood, the operator can more readily see exactly 
how much wood is dead and which needs to be 
thinned out, and just how much wood is living on 
each cane; therefore this is the best time in which 
to prune roses in all climates. 

In the spring pruning it will sometimes be found 
that canes of the weaker varieties have died back 
after a very severe winter to a smaller number of 
buds than above noted or given in our list, though 
these exceptions should be rare. If the wood has 
died back to any extent you will, of necessity, be 
forced to prune to the first good bud or eye below the 
winter killed portion without reference to the num- 
ber of buds, even if the cane is shorter than that 
left by the usual system. This information is a 

115 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

general working rule. There are some few varieties 
which, on account of their peculiar growth, should 
be pruned differently, and to cover this point 
thoroughly we have noted in our main list the num- 
ber of eyes to which each variety should be pruned, 
the number so given referring to the strongest canes; 
on the weaker ones you will, of course, cut to a less 
number of eyes. 

In order that the rules which we have given for 
pruning may be more thoroughly understood the 
system is illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5 herewith given. 
The first is a Hybrid Tea rose which was not pruned 
in the spring but was allowed to develop. The 
second is the same plant properly pruned. 

Fig. 4 shows the plant photographed after it was 
taken from the ground. On stem ''A," in particular, 
it will be noted that none of the lower buds have 
pushed but that the top buds are well developed. 
This carries out exactly our theory that on a long, 
weak stem the sap will go to the top buds only. 
To properly prune this weakest stem it should be 
cut off to two buds as is shown in Fig. 5. On stem 
''B," which is somewhat stronger, it will be noted 
that the lower buds have pushed, owing to some 
extent to the fact that this stem is not so long. 
Fig. 5 shows that we have pruned stem ''B" to the 
third bud, which is on the outside. The first bud 

116 




Fig. 4 
HYBRID TEA ROSE, NOT PRUNED BUT ALLOWED TO DEVELOP 




Fig. 5 
SAME ROSE AS FIG. 4 PROPERIA' PRUNED 



PRUNING 

is dormant and does not show clearly in the illustra- 
tion. Cane ''C" on Fig. 4 should be pruned in 
exactly the same way, cut to the third bud on the 
outside, and this is done in Fig. 5. Cane ''D" in 
Fig. 4 is undoubtedly the one which should be 
removed, as it crowds the center of the plant, and 
in Fig. 5 this stem has been cut out. You will note 
how much more space is left for the balance of the 
growth, particularly for the strong lowest shoot of 
"E." "E" in Fig. 4 should be cut to the fourth 
bud on the outside, and this is shown in Fig. 5. 
"F" is undoubtedly the strongest cane and on its 
whole length the young shoots have started vigor- 
ous spring growth. You cut " F " to five eyes as 
in Fig. 5. Had this plant (Fig. 4) been pruned in 
the early spring the dormant buds on ''A" and the 
lower buds on "B" and "C" would have been 
forced into growth, but as the stems were left long, 
the sap went to the top of these weaker growing 
canes. If cane ''F" had been somewhat larger, 
and ''B," ''C," and ''E" had been as small or 
smaller canes than ''A," the plant would have been 
too one-sided and it would have been necessary to 
have cut "F" back certainly to the third bud, which 
is on the outside, possibly to its lower bud to equalize 
the growth; but in this instance the three remaining 
canes in the center, ''B," ''C," and "E," are nearly 

117 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

as large as "F," and the cane ''A" by being cut 
back to its second eye should throw out strong 
growths, as the two buds remaining will secure all 
of the sap of this stalk. 

These instructions are given for general work to 
secure the greatest number of fine blooms. Natu- 
rally, if a person wishes exhibition blooms, such 
roses as he could exhibit with a chance of taking a 
prize at a rose show, and he is willing to be satis- 
fied with only a few of these, we would suggest 
after growth has started and the shoots have broken, 
that he again go carefully over his plants and cut 
out all weak growths, keeping only the most promis- 
ing shoots of the most vigorous canes. It will 
generally be necessary, in order to secure this result, 
to cut back to two shoots, but with a particularly 
vigorous and promising growth you may leave more, 
in which case, however, you must cut off the weaker 
growths below — in other words, following out our 
first theory, the fewer buds the more sap to each. 

The English custom for exhibition varieties, as a 
general rule, is to wait until the flowers have been 
formed and then to cut out such growths as are not 
required, mainly because they are not promising, 
and to allow all the vitality contained in the sap to 
go to the blooms which are left. Such blooms, 
receiving all the nourishment, tend to be larger and 

118 



PRUNING 

more perfect than the average flowers. However, 
they do not surpass the average bloom recommended 
to any marked degree, and they cut down the num- 
ber of flowers so greatly that they are not worth the 
sacrifice they entail except for exhibition purposes. 

The bush should be carefully and thoroughly 
pruned according to the rules given above, an 
additional and very necessary point being that the 
cut ought to be made not less than one-quarter of 
an inch above the bud and not more than one-half 
of an inch from it. The cut should not be straight 
across, that is, parallel with the ground, but should 
be slanting. This will keep the water from rotting 
out the wood too quickly before the bud starts 
and the shoots are established. In other words, 
one might say that the cut would drain off water 
like a roof on a miniature house. The cut should 
be clean. An ordinary pair of gardening pruning 
shears is the best implement for this work. These 
shears must be kept sharp, otherwise they leave rough 
edges and bruise the bark, which then will not heal. 

The most comfortable way in which to prune is 
to have a heavy square of carpet placed on the 
ground on which one may either sit or kneel. It is 
impossible to do any great amount of pruning unless 
some such method is used; to keep the dampness 
from coming through the carpet should be doubled 

119 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

over at least once. Persons having trouble with 
their eyes should be very careful to use their glasses 
in this work, as more minute attention is required 
than one would think. The foregoing suggestions 
apply mainly to a large amount of pruning, but even 
where the plants are few it would perhaps be best to 
employ this method, as the operation would certainly 
be much more comfortable. In all pruning a pair of 
heavy gloves will be found a necessary protection. 

In the autumn the only pruning necessary is to 
cut down the bushes so that the fibrous feeding 
roots will not be broken by the thrashing about of 
the tops in the heavy winter winds. It is quite 
easy to cut down to an approximate height until 
the early spring pruning, and when the plants have 
done blooming and the frost has set in severely we 
would suggest that they be cut to an approximate 
height of one foot and a half, except in strongest 
growing kinds and climbers. Do not cut to less. The 
buds liable to break are upper buds, and if forced 
in a warm, late autumn or early spring, after break- 
ing they will certainly winter kill. If left short there 
are not enough buds remaining below to carry out 
the scheme of pruning; if left longer, no harm is done. 

Under pruning it is well to include the cutting of 
the bloom. This is a part of rose culture which is 
usually neither considered nor understood. It is 

120 



PRUNING 

not easy to regulate by actual rule but if the principle 
is understood the proper cutting of roses is a very 
easy matter. In this, as in spring pruning, the 
method to be employed depends entirely upon what 
is desired. Cutting off the blooms insures more. 
If they are not cut new growth will not start so 
quickly. For this reason it is advisable to pinch off 
any blooms which may have been left on the plants. 
This should be particularly noted with all bedding 
varieties which are kept for garden decoration and 
are not usually cut. If a stem is left and the seed 
pod forms it takes the greater part of the nourish- 
ment on any shoot, the sap going to the top as has 
been previously noted. Nature thus provides for 
the greatest amount of sustenance going to the 
seed pod. By autumn, if blooms are not cut but 
pinched, you will have a very much larger plant 
than if the blooms had been cut, and the plant has 
perhaps somewhat better foUage. But with us the 
cutting of flowers is a great pleasure and we like 
to have them in the house as well as to see them 
on the bushes, so that the great majority of our 
blooms are cut and, after the method of pruning 
which we have advocated, mostly with long stems. 
If this is what you want you must be a little careful 
in the cutting of your stems to leave enough buds 
below the cut on the shoot from which you are 

121 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

taking your flower to provide other shoots, which 
will later in the season give you more blooms. On 
the stronger varieties in the June blooming season, 
on a Hybrid Tea rose or a rose which you expect 
to bloom further, you should leave enough buds to 
give shoots for summer and for autumn bloom. 
Therefore in such cuttings we would suggest leaving 
never less than two buds at the base of the shoot, 
and with very strong varieties three buds, always 
seeing that the bud you cut back to is a strong one. 
If you cut leaving a long stem you may, perhaps, 
get more flowers but they will not be on such stal- 
wart stems, nor will they produce as fine blooms. 
If you are cutting from a Hybrid Perpetual, or from 
a rose from which you do not expect to secure more 
bloom, to cut to one bud will be sufficient. In this 
cutting of blooms, the same as in pruning, you can 
follow the well-known theory that on a weak growth 
you can cut farther back than on a strong growth. 
Approximately on an average growth we would 
leave, as above stated, two buds on the constantly- 
blooming varieties. In late fall cutting it will be 
unnecessary to leave any buds below the cut as 
there will be no more bloom after frost. In the 
weak kinds, with the frail, drooping stems, perhaps 
you do not wish all of the stem cut to remain on 
your bloom, but you certainly do not wish it to 

122 



PRUNING 

remain on the plant; therefore €ut harder on the 
weak growths and afterwards reduce the length of 
the stem to suit your fancy. Unless you have 
hybridized, or wish to try raising seed from chance 
fertilization, you do not need the seed pods or heps 
to develop, and if twice a week during the blooming 
season you pick all old blooms from your plants 
you will not only keep the beds in better order but 
secure more flowers thereafter. 

Spring pruning as given here applies to roses 
after the first year. For the first year they should 
all be cut back to three eyes on good wood and one 
eye in weak wood. This gives the young, unestab- 
lished roots less work to do and provides more time 
for them to prepare for the following year. 

In pruning varieties not mentioned in our list the 
main work to be done is always to cut out all the dead 
wood. This, of course, also applies to the list. 

Rugosas, Austrian Briars, Chinas and Bourbons 
require practically no pruning excepting the removal 
of dead wood and necessary thinning to prevent 
crowding. If pruned severely it tends to the devel- 
opment of wood instead of flowers, especially in the 
Austrian Briar. 

To go over the main points, the theories which 
we have tried to bring out in this chapter are: 
prune when the new growth can be plainly noted; 

123 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

for medium fine blooms prune the strong varieties 
on the strongest canes to five and six eyes; weaker 
canes to a smaller number. On the weaker varie- 
ties prune to three and four eyes on the strong canes; 
two and three eyes on the weaker ones. If you wish 
more blooms and do not care so much for quality, 
desiring the bushes to be more of a garden decora- 
tion, do not prune quite so far down the canes. If 
you want only a few exhibition blooms, cut harder, 
and, later in the season, thin out unnecessary and 
unpromising growths. For all plants cut out dead 
wood. In cutting roses during the spring and summer 
never leave less than two eyes on any stem which 
you cut. This gives you summer and autumn 
blooms. On the very strongest varieties cut to 
three eyes — always cut to a strong eye. Be sure 
that your cut is a clean one and slanting, and from 
one-quarter to one-half an inch above the bud. 
Always cut to outside buds, unless for some par- 
ticular reason you wish to have the plant grow in 
some other direction. 

In all pruning remember the working rule and so 
accomplish your purpose; the fewer buds you leave 
to break the more sap they will receive, and the 
more buds you leave the smaller amount of sap 
each one will get, and also that the buds near the 
base may not break. 



VIII 
CULTIVATION 

If you have followed the directions given in this 
book for location, preparation of bed, ordering, 
planting and pruning, your really hard work is over 
and the most pleasant part is before you. The 
actual culture of the rose is very easy and agreeable. 
Beyond a little spring and autumn care, some 
spraying and the weeding of the beds, there is not 
much work to be done. In the spring, after the 
frost is out of the ground, you should have taken 
off the covering of your bed, whether it be litter or 
only leaves. The little mounds should now be raked 
down so that the bed is level, and if your roses were 
covered with litter the greater part of it, especially 
the straw, should be removed, and the manure 
that is left should be forked into the bed; but not 
to the extent of disturbing the roots. After the roses 
are pruned, the next thing which should occupy 
your attention is the feeding of the plants in order 
to give a particularly fine growth. 

In the bed itself, of course, you have enough 
manure to furnish the roots with food for many 
years, but to secure the best results you should 

125 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

also feed the roots from the surface. Wood ashes 
and bone meal may be alternately forked into the 
bed after growth has begun. Another good food is 
liquid manure water in the proportion of half a 
bushel of manure to a barrel of water — "weak and 
often" is the old gardener's recipe. 

Blood diluted with water is sometimes used. Mr. 
Frederick W. Taylor uses this alternately with 
manure water; his recipe is five pounds of blood to 
a barrel of water. After mixing, permit the blood to 
settle, then draw off the greater part of the water; 
use the same blood in the same manner twice again, 
five pounds making three mixtures. 

In April or May the shoots should begin to grow, 
and very shortly the buds themselves will appear 
and gradually turn into blooms. On certain varie- 
ties, too few unfortunately, there is only one ter- 
minal bud on each growth; on a great many you will 
find small buds appearing close to the larger ones; 
these should be gone over and carefully removed if 
you wish the finest blooms, as naturally they take 
a certain amount of sustenance, and the main bloom 
will develop better and will be of finer quality if it 
receives all the nourishment. It does not take very 
long to go over your plants and disbud all these 
smaller flower buds, and unless you wish nothing 
but a mass of color in your beds our advice is to 

126 



CULTIVATION 

remove them. The easiest way is to pull them off 
carefully with the thumb and forefinger, and in 
doing so see that you do not take hold of anything 
but the bud to be removed. This can be easily and 
quickly done. 

You will now find that all your young buds and 
leaves are covered with httle, light green insects — 
Green Flies or Aphides, which are common pests in 
rose gardens. There is a very effective remedy for 
them which will greatly check their future develop- 
ment; this is to spray with a solution of tobacco stems 
and whale oil soap. The proportions which we have 
found to be best are as follows : One pound of tobacco 
stems to a bucket of water, to which add an ounce of 
whale oil soap, first dissolved in a small quantity of 
hot water. It will take about three hours for this 
to dissolve. It should then be added to the tobacco 
mixtiue. This is an easy preparation to remember: 
one bucket of water, one pound of tobacco stems and 
one ounce of the whale oil soap ; the two latter-named 
articles can be readily secured at any seed store.* The 
Aphides are quickly destroyed with this spray and 
a gallon of the mixture by careful apphcation is 

* Doctor H. A. Service, the Zoologist of the State of Pennsylvania, 
recommends a mixture of one ounce of Blackleaf No. 40 with five 
gallons of water. This is more convenient than the infusion with 
tobacco stems and gives the same result. It may be bought at seed 
stores. We would suggest adding 7}^ oz. of soft soap to the above 
so that the spray will adhere to the foliage. 

127 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

enough for from fifteen to twenty-five rose plants; 
by applying with an ordinary whisk broom it will 
take care of fifty plants and can be done as well, 
but it requires more time in applying than with 
the sprayer. 

By this time the ground will naturally need weed- 
ing. It seems hardly necessary to go into details 
regarding the proper method. An ordinary scratch 
hoe, as the gardener terms it, will quickly take out 
the weeds and also destroy some of those not yet 
up. Care must be taken not to hurt the rose roots. 
This is really a very simple operation, and any 
gardener can do this if you do not care to do it 
yourself. Your roses are now in bloom and you 
are cutting them carefully and no doubt having 
much pleasure in seeing them about the house and 
giving them to visitors. 

As the days become warmer and the ground 
drier you must take more care of the plants. You 
should keep the earth broken up in the beds and not 
permit it to form a hard cake or crust, as it will do 
if left alone. This breaking up should be done 
twice a week. In addition to this you must consider 
feeding your roses further if you want the very 
best blooms. For this purpose ordinary manure 
water, as described above, is the best possible food 
and perhaps easiest to secure in most places. When 

128 



CULTIVATION 

the roses are fully formed, withhold manure water 
until after the first crop, apply again as each suc- 
ceeding crop of buds commences to develop. Roses 
need a slight rest between crops. If you have 
placed the blanket of peat moss on your beds, which 
was recommended in a former chapter, there will 
be very little weeding and no breaking up of dried 
earth necessary and the moisture should be well 
conserved in your beds. We recommend that this 
covering be put on and believe that it will save 
labor and greatly aid the growth of the plant by 
keeping the ground at a much more even tempera- 
ture than it would be otherwise. The first of May 
would seem about the proper time for the peat moss. 

Watering is necessary in very dry weather if 
your ground becomes thoroughly baked, but you 
should never water your plants late in the day. The 
plants should go to sleep with dry foliage, otherwise 
mildew will develop. Roses should always be 
watered early in the morning before the temperature 
rises — it is unnatural to water them during heat — 
they are accustomed to cool temperature with rain. 
Mildew is a disease of the leaves which appears 
when there is too much moisture. The use of 
peat moss will render watering to some extent 
unnecessary. 

One other plague for which you must watch is 

9 129 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

the rose slug, which chews the leaves. This pest 
must be destroyed by a stronger preparation than 
tobacco leaves, as it is very hardy and not as quickly 
disposed of as the little green bug. Lemon oil is 
considered a good remedy and we have proved its 
efficiency. It also can be taken care of by mixing 
whale oil soap, already referred to, and water, in the 
proportion of about an ounce to a gallon of water. 
The very best remedy, however, is powdered white 
hellebore. Make a solution of two tablespoonfuls 
in a bucket of boiling water, and after it has cooled 
apply it with a whisk broom under the leaves. 

These directions are really all that are necessary 
to raise roses successfully, except that you must 
watch carefully for any sprouts of the Manetti or 
other stock, on which the roses themselves are 
budded or grafted. As explained in the chapter on 
propagation, these shoots are a lighter-colored green 
than the average foliage of roses, and have seven 
leaves instead of three or five, in addition to which 
the wood itself is covered with little prickles. You 
will not find many of these, though after looking 
for a time and not seeing any you will believe that 
they probably will not appear at all, when suddenly 
some morning you will be surprised to find a tall, 
light green shoot on the outside of one of your rose 
bushes which you have heretofore not noticed. The 

130 



CULTIVATION 

cutting off of this shoot from the root itself is the 
proper remedy for this enemy to the growth of your 
plant. 

Rose bugs or beetles are really the worst pests 
which you have to endure. They are quite large 
and it is most annoying to find these destructive 
insects on your beautiful blooms. The best way is 
to pick them off by hand. This, if done thoroughly 
when they commence to appear, is really the only 
sure method of ridding one's rose gardens of these 
miserable pests. We have tried a number of sprays 
which have undoubtedly helped to some extent, but 
it is much more thorough to go around and actually 
remove and destroy the bugs yourself — pick them 
off, drop them into a can of kerosene and they are 
gone. 

At the end of this chapter will be found a list of 
recipes for the diseases of roses. 

So your plants work on through the hotter part 
of the summer and now towards its close the nights 
commence to become cooler and the days are still 
quite warm; the air itself is very moist and humid. 
This occurs usually in the latter part of August, 
and this change from eighty degrees or more in the 
daytime to sixty degrees or less in the night is one 
which the rose foliage does not hke. When there is 
also great humidity mildew is liable to occur. A 

131 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

good remedy is grape dust, which can be obtained 
in any seed store or from any nurseryman with 
directions for use. Another remedy is a solution of 
sulphide of potassium, one-quarter of an ounce to a 
gallon of w^ater, to which add one and one-half 
ounces of common soft soap. The soap should be 
boiled before being added to the solution. This is 
the cure we prefer. 

Black spot is another disease which sometimes 
comes towards the end of the summer. We have 
experienced it mostly in potted greenhouse plants 
and we advise against planting roses from pots, as 
each time we have done so black spot has resulted. 
If we plant only dormant field-grown stock we 
do not have this disease. Dr. Huey concurs in 
this opinion and, as a cure, advocates picking off 
such leaves as are affected as soon as they appear. 
Last year we used a formaldehyde solution with 
fair success, but black spot is most difficult to 
eradicate. 

The '' American Florist," in its issue of June 14, 
1914, has a very interesting article on black spot 
treatment, taken from publications of the National 
Rose Society of England. The main point in the 
article is that black spot is a fungous disease which 
invades the living tissues of the plant and there 
reproduces itself by means of spores on the leaves. 

132 



CULTIVATION 

To combat the disease formaldehyde is suggested 
and is supposed to be absorbed by the tissues of 
the plant and to kill the spores on the leaves. 
This article further states that it is considered 
advisable to use the formaldehyde as a spray not 
only on the leaves and stems, but also to have the 
solution reach the plant through the soil. To 
accomplish this result it is advised that ''the cool 
of a calm evening in summer when the soil had been 
previously loosened, and moistened if necessary, 
would be ideal." In the treatment referred to above 
it is necessary, in order to secure the proper results, 
to spray as soon as the buds begin to open early in 
the spring, and for this early spraying two table- 
spoonfuls of commercial formaldehyde are diluted 
in a gallon of water; for later spraying when the 
plant is in full growth one-half strength is used, i.e., 
one tablespoonful to a gallon of water, and the 
weaker spray used at intervals of a week or ten days 
through the growing season. Where black spot 
has gained a firm hold on the plants, it is also 
advocated that a solution of double strength be used 
in February. 

As the nights become still colder your blooms 
will, of course, take longer to develop and you can- 
not expect as much from your bushes; nevertheless 
the roses still make a fight to give you flowers and 

133 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

you will nearly always be able to pick them from 
the late bloomers until about the middle of Novem- 
ber. We have picked roses until Thanksgiving, and 
during the past year even later. From the middle 
to the last of November is the time roses should be 
given proper winter protection. 

The first thing to do with all ordinary bushes is 
to cut them down to an approximate height of a foot 
and a half. They will nearly all die down to this 
height or below in any event, and by cutting off the 
bushy tops damage by high wind is prevented. 
The peat moss should at this time be removed and 
saved for the following spring. 

The matter of hilling up has been noted, but is so 
important that we will give the description again. 
It consists of heaping the ground up around the 
bush. It is well to add some top soil to the bed 
and hoe this up in a little mound around each plant 
to a height not less than six inches above the bed 
level. 

With the Hybrid Perpetuals and the very hardiest 
of the Hybrid Teas this hilling up is not really 
necessary, but there are very many beautiful varie- 
ties which can be brought through the winter by 
this method only. 

After the roses are hilled up, wait until the ground 
freezes before placing the litter on the beds. No 

134 



CULTIVATION 

insects or mice will then inhabit it during the winter 
and injure the green wood of the canes. Another 
good way is to fill the spaces between the little 
mounds with autumn leaves or meadow hay, with 
enough earth spread over the top to keep them from 
blowing away. This is an easy method and undoubt- 
edly adds warmth to the beds. 

After the winter is over it is better to remove the 
litter or leaves too early rather than too late, be- 
cause they will rapidly heat up under the influence 
of the warm spring sun and the buds of the rose 
canes will be forced into breaking too early, when 
any later heavy frost will severely kill back the 
young shoots so started by the heat. It is therefore 
advisable to take this covering from the roses when 
the frost is out of the ground and before the heat of 
the sun becomes great and lasting. 

Standard roses should be most carefully protected. 
We have lost during the winter about twenty per 
cent, of our plants; at best from ten to twenty per 
cent, lost has been our average of these in the strong- 
est varieties, even when winter protection was given. 

We believe that you will not have ten per cent. 
of deaths if you give these very attractive standards 
proper winter protection. Try placing around them 
a rough box made of boards and filling it with earth, 
covering well above the junction of the strong 

135 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

growing stalk with the rose itself. Mr. Frederick 
W. Taylor recommends making this box at least 
two feet square, and filling it with tightly packed 
earth from the ground level to the top of the 
plant above the bud. Another good method often 
used is to bend down the entire plant after care- 
fully loosening the roots and to place it in a 
trench and cover it heavily with earth. We have 
tried protecting standards with old pieces of carpet, 
carefully wrapped around the upper part of the 
plants only, but find that the method of actually 
encasing the entire plant with earth is the best. 

Most Wichuraiana and other climbers will come 
through the winter well by themselves. Others, 
however, winter kill more or less, not enough to 
kill the plant itself but to destroy parts of the main 
stems. The Wichuraiana climbers bloom upon the 
wood of the preceding year, and if such wood is 
lacking and the rose has to throw up new shoots 
there will be no bloom. If the main shoots are killed 
back the few existing blooms will be low down, so 
that in the far north it would be well to bend down 
the canes and protect them with the usual blanket 
of earth. Ordinarily where climbers are protected 
from the north and particularly the northwest winds, 
it really is not necessary to give them any other 
protection; but it does not take very long to bend 

136 



CULTIVATION 

down the long trailing branches carefully and cover 
them with earth. This should especially be done in 
the case of climbing Hybrid Teas, as these kill back 
very much more than the other climbers. 

RECIPES FOR THE DISEASES OF ROSES 

Below we quote extracts from the best known 
authorities, giving their recipes for mildew, black 
spot, rust, etc. 

"The Rose Book" (Page 211). H. H. Thomas suggests using a 
mixture for mildew of equal parts of fine quicklime and sulphur 
dusted on the affected areas. 
"Roses, Their History, Development, and Culture" (Page 
303) . Pemberton advocates the same dusting and also gives the 
lolloping: 1 lb. flowers of sulphur, 1 lb. powdered quicklime. 
Add sufficient water to form a paste. Add one gallon of cold 
water. Boil for twenty minutes and when cool pour off the 
hquid and spray at the rate of half a pint of the above mixture 
to six gallons of water. 

(Page 303) . Pemberton recommends 1 ^ lb. of Calvert's carbofic 
soft soap in 73^ quarts of water— a pailful; spray with one part 
of mixture to three parts of soft water, and he adds, "this is 
the remedy we apply." 
"Roses and Rose Growing" (The Macmillan Co.), (Pages 137- 
138). Miss Kingsley advocates flowers of sulphur for mildew, 
distributed by a pair of powder bellows, and suggests applying 
before mildew appears. She uses Quassia Chips for Aphis, and 
recommends picking by hand for caterpillars. 
"The Rose" (Page 89). Ellwanger's recipe for mildew is sulphur 
and soot, applied while the dew is on the plants so that it will 
adhere. 
"Roses" (Page 52). The Garden Library of Doubleday, Page & 
Company _ suggests for black spot carbonate of copper com- 
pound, using five ounces of copper compound to three quarts 
of ammonia and sixty gallons of water. The spraying should 
be done once a week, using a hose with a nozzle that gives a 
fine spray. 
"Pictorial Practical Rose Growing" (Pages 80-84). Wright 
does not mention black spot, but our understanding of the 
reference made to orange fungus or red rust is that it develops 
into black rust, possibly the same as the well-known black spot. 
This article is so clear and appeals to us so strongly that we 
quote it verbatim, and will try the recipes given if troubled in 
the future. 

137 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

"When the experienced rose grower observes orange-yellow 
spots on the leaves of his plants in early summer, he knows that 
he sees the advance guard of the fungoid disease known vari- 
ously as orange fungus and red rust. 

"Some suppose these to be separate diseases; on the contrary 
they are separate stages in the triune life-cycle of disease, 
Phragmidium subcorticatum. The first, or Mcidium, stage gives 
the orange fungus; the second, or Uredo, stage gives the red 
rust; the third, or Teleuto, stage gives a black rust. 
"Where the orange fungus has obtained a strong hold, and has 
caused trouble for several successive years, it cannot be exter- 
minated at a single attempt. Repeated attacks on it must be 
made. Measures may begin by spraying the bushes thoroughly 
in the spring, before growth starts, with Bordeaux mixture. 
"Bordeaux Mixture. — To prepare Bordeaux mixture take 
23^ lb. of sulphate of copper (bluestone), dissolve in a little hot 
water; 23^ lb. of freshly burned lime, dissolve in cold water; 
1 lb. of agricultural treacle, 1 lb. of soft soap. Pour together 
when cool; stir the treacle or soft soap well in and make up to 
twenty-five gallons with water. 

"When the first signs of the disease appear in summer, spray 
with carbam, repeating if necessary. The solution should 
reach the under as well as the upper side of the leaves. 
"To prepare carbam, take 1 ounce of carbonate of copper, 
3^ pint of liquid ammonia. Dissolve the carbonate of copper 
in the ammonia and mix with ten gallons of water." 

One point that all authorities seem to agree upon 
is the picking and burning of all dead and fallen 
leaves affected by black spot. 



IX 

SOME GENERAL INFORMATION AND 
HINTS ON HYBRIDIZATION 

By this time the reader should have gained a 
practical idea of how to make a small rose garden 
and care for it. If he wishes to go into the various 
features of rose culture more thoroughly, the books 
we have suggested will give him the necessary 
information. We have treated more especially of 
the small rose garden for the average American 
home; we have not considered formal gardens, nor 
how to cultivate the various weaker varieties of 
roses to any extent. 

In the roses marked numbers 1 and 2 under 
heading ''List" we have been careful to give only 
those varieties which we know will succeed well 
without any great care or special protection. In the 
American climate of which we wTite, the latitude of 
the Middle Atlantic States, it is not possible to grow 
some of the roses which succeed so wonderfully in 
the south of England and in France. However, 
there is a vast area in the United States in which 
all of those more dehcate roses may be successfully 
grown, more particularly in the southeast and south- 

139 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

west; in fact in every part of our great country 
where there is httle frost all of these wonderful 
Teas and Climbing Teas and Noisettes may be 
successfully cultivated. Therefore, if your home is 
in that section of the country we strongly advise 
you to try all roses marked "B" and "C" in our 
main list under the heading ''Hardiness," but we 
do not believe it would pay you to grow Hybrid 
Perpetuals to any extent except in a large garden 
or collection. Although we can recommend these 
more delicate roses for the southern climate referred 
to above, we do not wish to intimate that they are 
better than the Hybrid Teas of our well-tried Hst. 
These should succeed as well as in our own climate. 
The point that we desire to bring out is that the 
more delicate roses can be successfully cultivated 
below the frost belt. In the northern part of our 
country, where the winter is very cold and severe 
and the temperature remains considerably below 
zero for long periods, roses must be given every 
protection to succeed; in that part north of Boston, 
for instance, only the very hardiest of the Hybrid 
Teas, Hybrid Perpetuals and Wichuraianas will 
stand the winter out-of-doors, and they must be 
given even more thorough winter protection than is 
advised for our Middle Atlantic climate. In all 
except the very coldest parts of our climate it would 

140 



GENERAL INFORMATION 

be feasible to grow the hardiest roses by covering 
them with a deep layer of soil, or by transplanting 
in the winter to boxes placed indoors. If one really 
loves roses this extra trouble is well worth while. 

In this colder climate the best method is that roses 
be grown in good-sized pots or boxes, and in the 
autumn when frost comes the plants be moved in 
their flower pots or boxes to a cellar or building 
where extreme cold will not reach them. In the case 
of a cellar with an earthen floor the pots can be placed 
beneath the surface. The only thing necessary 
during the winter is to give the plants several water- 
ings. In the spring the rose pots or boxes should be 
carried out and again placed beneath the surface of 
the soil in their old bed and as the rose increases in 
size a larger pot must be provided. While we have 
never tried this plan ourselves we feel confident that 
even in an extreme climate it is perfectly feasible 
and could be carried out in any part of the United 
States. We know of roses being grown on the Gulf 
of St. Lawrence where the temperature reaches 
forty degrees below zero; they were protected during 
winter by the device of covering each bush with a 
small keg, filled with earth. The Hybrid Perpetuals 
did best in this locality; even the strongest of the 
Hybrid Teas tried gave poor results. In our own 
more moderate climate of the Middle Atlantic States 

141 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

and in approximate temperatures it would be possible 
to grow many of the more delicate roses with the 
heaviest winter protection, and we propose to try 
this experiment next year. 

One of the best means of protecting roses from 
the cold and the wind is a good brick or stone wall. 
It is expensive, but even a low wall will make it 
possible to grow the smaller Teas, and a four-foot 
wall would be of great use in protecting low bushes 
from the heavy winds, while with a six or eight-foot 
wall it would be possible to care for the wonderfully 
blooming Climbing Teas. The tender Cherokee rose 
is being successfully grown near Philadelphia on the 
south side of a wall. The ideal exposure would be 
a wall facing the south or southeast and, as the 
winter approaches, the climbers could be taken 
down from their fastenings on the wall and covered 
over with earth and the smaller roses cut back and 
heavily covered. In an ideal rose garden, with such 
a wall completely surrounding it, there would be a 
great opportunity not only for the proper growing 
of many of these very beautiful varieties which 
otherwise one cannot hope to raise, but by utilizing 
both sides of the wall it also would be possible to 
bring roses into bloom at different times. On the 
north side only the very hardiest of the climbing 
roses would do at all well. Crimson Rambler and 

U-2 



GENERAL INFORMATION 

Wichuraianas would be roses to try on such an 
exposure, and if four such roses of the same variety 
were planted on four different exposures they would 
come into bloom at various times, thus lengthening 
the period of bloom. 

A difference in soil and situation affects the time 
of bloom to some extent. A north slope will come 
in slightly later than a southern exposure; but in 
colder sections, and particularly in sections where 
late frost is liable to occur after growth is started, a 
north slope is a safe exposure. In such a situation 
the early spring sun will not reach the roses as it 
would on a southern slope, and they will not be 
forced into growth only to be killed back afterwards 
by the late frosts. It has been well proven that high 
ground will not have as much frost as low, well- 
sheltered ground, for in the latter the frost will 
settle in the late spring and cause damage, whereas 
on the high ground the air will have free access and 
will not allow the frost to remain, as it seems to do in 
low-lying ground. 

Proximity to the ocean or any large body of water 
gives a more even temperature than is found in 
inland sections. On Buzzard's Bay, Massachusetts, 
where we lived for a number of years, we were very 
successful with our Hybrid Teas, and even with 
some of the Teas. The winters were much colder 

143 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

there than farther south in Philadelphia where we 
now reside, but with proper and heavy hilling up 
there was a very small percentage of deaths, and 
owing to the cool, moist climate, the blooms were 
particularly fine. We remember especially that the 
Souvenir du Pierre Notting of the Buzzard Bay dis- 
trict was a much superior rose to the one grown near 
Philadelphia. However, since that time, after experi- 
menting with various roses of about the same growth 
and bloom as Souvenir du Pierre Notting, we have 
discovered that Alex. Hill Gray is much superior to 
it, being the same type but a better grower, with 
more perfect foliage and bloom. For these reasons 
we have replaced Souvenir du Pierre Notting with 
Alex. Hill Gray. 

There is a very interesting list of roses for the 
locality of Chicago published in ''How to Make a 
Flower Garden," in which Mr. W. C. Egan gives 
his experience with roses near Jackson Park, Chicago. 
From the list which he selects it would seem that 
the hardiest Hybrid Teas would do well there, as 
his article included with the Hybrid Perpetuals 
several Hybrid Teas and Teas which are not among 
our hardiest varieties. 

On the Pacific Coast roses do wonderfully well. 
In Santa Barbara, California, they come into bloom 
before Christmas, and the growing season there be- 

144 



GENERAL INFORMATION 

gins after the priod of summer drought; what we in 
the East would call early autumn is, in reality, spring 
in southern California. Farther north on the Pacific 
Coast we have friends who advise that roses are most 
successful with them, and no doubt roses in our list 
which are marked "B" and ''C" as to hardiness 
would probably not winter kill to any extent, al- 
though we, naturally, more strongly reconmiend the 
roses in our set of sixteen chosen varieties. 

HINTS ON HYBRIDIZATION 

It would hardly seem that this chapter will be 
complete without further information on the most 
interesting part of rose growing, that is, hybridiza- 
tion to secure new varieties. The books which we 
have noted in the chapter on propagation will take 
the reader very thoroughly through this most fas- 
cinating subject, and they should be secured by 
any one who proposes to attempt such work. 

We have been making experiments with seedlings 
and with hybridizing for some time past. It will 
be found by the person who wishes to have some 
interesting work for the winter and who can give up 
part of his greenhouse, that a great deal may be 
accomplished even in a limited space. A conserva- 
tory would also give one an opportunity to make 
interesting experiments. 

10 145 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

The Hybrid Tea list, with the addition of Pernet- 
Ducher's Pernetiana, makes this section of outdoor 
roses very complete, but there is still a large field 
to work upon and particularly in the climbing section. 
Any one who can breed a hardy seedling climber 
which will bloom reliably from frost to frost will be 
giving the rose world a most important addition. 
By securing a few potted plants in the early autumn 
quite a number of crosses could be made, although 
the chances of securing what is desired would not 
be as great as if one had more plants with which 
to experiment. 

During the past season we have been most suc- 
cessful with all our hybridizing and therefore one 
or two hints may be of use to any one deciding to 
undertake such a task. 

As most of the books state, a rose will become 
fertilized with its own pollen more quickly than by 
the pollen of any other rose. The main point for 
success is to watch most carefully the rose which is 
to be bred so that before the pollen becomes ripe 
the anthers and stamens may be removed. It is 
very easy to tell when the pollen is ripe because it 
will then drop in small yellow particles upon the 
petals of the rose, and if one's finger is rubbed across 
the anthers the yellow dust will at once be noticed. 
Our procedure has been to pluck off the petals of 

146 




Fig. fi . 
ROSE WITH PETALS REMOVED, SHOWING THE STAMENS AND ANTHERS 
WHICH BEAR THE POLLEN 




Fig. 7 

SAME ROSE AS FIG. 6 WITH MOST OF STAMENS AND ANTHERS REMOVED, 

SHOWING THE STYLES AND PISTILS— THE FEMALE ORGANS 



GENERAL INFORMATION 

the selected rose before the pollen reaches this stage. 
After the petals have been removed a small pair of 
scissors should be used to cut off the anthers. Our 
method has been to have a helper hold a piece of 
paper on which most of the stamens and the anthers 
and their pollen will be caught, and as we cut them 
off we turn the rose and only cut the stamens from 
the under side, thus precluding any possibility of the 
immature pollen reaching the pistils. As the sta- 
mens are cut off we generally find that some few 
of them will be bent over and not yet fully developed, 
and these should be carefully severed from the plant 
because later on they will be dangerous to the experi- 
ment. The pollen contained on the anthers which 
you have cut off if kept in the sun will be developed 
and can be used on any other flower which you care 
to hybridize. Having prepared the seed parent or 
female flower, you must now secure the pollen from 
the other parent selected. If you do not desire to 
use the other plant from which you purpose taking 
the pollen for a seed parent, it will be unnecessary 
to secure the pollen as above suggested, but the 
whole flower may be cut and the pollen should be 
active to have the experiment a success. 

All authorities seem to agree with our experience 
that a bright, warm day is the best on which to breed 
roses, as in damp, cloudy weather the pollen does not 

147 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

seem active. When the pollen is falling from the 
anthers in the small, yellow dust, just mentioned, 
there is little doubt that your rose will be properly 
fertilized, it being only necessary to shake the pollen 
on to the pistils of the rose selected as a seed parent 
for the hybridizing to be complete. If you desire to 
use the rose you have selected as pollen bearer also 
as a seed parent, you must remove the pollen from 
it as suggested above, otherwise it will become fer- 
tilized by its own pollen. Perhaps it is safer to be 
sure of each experiment as one progresses; therefore 
it is well to cut off the anthers before the pollen 
becomes ripe and then, cutting the rose selected for 
the other parent, dust its pollen on the seed parent 
selected. 

We have found that practically all of the roses 
we have hybridized have become good, healthy seed 
pods and have contained seeds; this success we 
attribute to the fact that we have always used great 
care and have never tried to hybridize except with 
active pollen. 

After roses have been hybridized you have nothing 
to do but allow the seed pods to develop, and when 
the weather becomes warm in late spring or early 
summer take the plants from the greenhouse or 
conservatory and plant the pots in soil out-of-doors 
to enable the heps to mature properly. In order to 

148 




Fig. 8 
SEED POD ON A HYBRID TEA ROSE WHICH HAS BEEN HYBRIDIZED 



GENERAL INFORMATION 

protect seed pods from birds or other interference 
it is advisable to cover them both on the sides and 
tops with wire netting. Towards early autumn the 
seeds should be taken carefully from the heps 
and planted, each lot being kept separate from the 
others. 

Our experience has been that probably in mature 
seeds a little rose plant will sprout in a month or 
thereabouts. Sometimes it will take two months or 
even longer, but with greenhouse care, bottom heat, 
and carefully-selected soil for germination of the 
seed a month and a half will witness the appearance 
certainly of some plants; in the course of another 
six weeks very small blooms will appear on some 
few of them, though not with the climbers. 

It is our understanding that the commercial firms 
who grow new varieties of outdoor roses at once bud 
or graft on Manetti or Briar stocks to propagate the 
wood, but where a person had only a few seedlings, 
the method of inarching would seem to us another 
practical way to secure quick results indoors. 

''Commercial Rose Culture," by Eber Holmes, 
contains a very interesting article, with illustrations, 
of this method. It mentions that the Department 
of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., Bulletin No. 202, 
Bureau of Plant Industry, Mr. George W. Oliver, 
is the source from which the information is taken. 

149 



GENERAL INFORMATION 

protect seed pods from birds or other interference 
it is advisable to cover them both on the sides and 
tops with wire netting. Towards early autumn the 
seeds should be taken carefully from the heps 
and planted, each lot being kept separate from the 
others. 

Our experience has been that probably in mature 
seeds a little rose plant will sprout in a month or 
thereabouts. Sometimes it will take two months or 
even longer, but with greenhouse care, bottom heat, 
and carefully-selected soil for germination of the 
seed a month and a half will witness the appearance 
certainly of some plants; in the course of another 
six weeks very small blooms will appear on some 
few of them, though not with the climbers. 

It is our understanding that the commercial firms 
who grow new varieties of outdoor roses at once bud 
or graft on Manetti or Briar stocks to propagate the 
wood, but where a person had only a few seedlings, 
the method of inarching would seem to us another 
practical way to secure quick results indoors. 

''Commercial Rose Culture," by Eber Holmes, 
contains a very interesting article, with illustrations, 
of this method. It mentions that the Department 
of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., Bulletin No. 202, 
Bureau of Plant Industry, Mr. George W. Oliver, 
is the source from which the information is taken. 

149 



OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING 

This operation is very quick, and is supposed to 
be even more rapid than securing average blooms 
from cuttings; to learn it, the ''Nursery Book," by 
Mr. L. H. Bailey, previously referred to, will give 
all the information required and should be used with 
the book by Holmes just mentioned. During the 
winter of 1914-15, we have experimented with the 
propagation of new varieties of our own breeding 
and have found inarching to be rather difficult with 
young seedlings. 

As a rule inside grafting is not done the latter part 
of the winter, the sun being too hot and preventing 
the best results being attained. Our seeds are not 
planted until fall and the resulting seedlings have 
not sufficient wood for grafting until the season is 
too late. 

Briar as a stock is not used in indoor work, as 
during the winter it "goes to sleep." 

For these reasons we are of the opinion that for 
general practice budding on the Japanese Multi- 
flora or Manetti will give the best ultimate results. 
Seedlings of Wichuraiana, of Rugosa and of sorts 
which grow especially well on their own roots should 
first be tested on their own roots. 

For a temporary inside test, budding on strong 
blooming plants will be found to give quick results. 



INDEX 



Admiral Dewey rose, 36 
Aime6 Cochet rose, 36 
Alex. Hill Gray rose, 50, 144 
AU-roimd best roses, 41, 50, 52, 

53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 59, 60, 61, 65 
Alphides, or green flies, 127 
Alpina roses, propagation of, by 

suckers, 17 
American growers, advantages 

of bujdng from, 94 
Annie Besant rose, 50 
Antoine Revoire rose, 36, 50 
102, 103 
Best 16, No. 3 
Ards Rover rose, 68 
Arthior R. Goodwin rose, 50 
Ashes as a fertilizer, 126 
Autumn planting, advantage, 97 

B 

Bardou Job rose, 50 
Baroness Rothschild rose, 50 
Beaute Inconstante rose, 50 
Beds, care of, 107 

composition, 87 

design — suggestions, 100, 102 

drainage, 87 

finished, 88 

for autumn planting, 90 

location and preparation, 80 

soU, soils, 83, 88 
Belle Siebrecht rose, 37 
Best aU-round roses, 41 sq. 



Betty rose, 50 

Best 16, No. 15 

Black spot, cure for, 132, 138 

Blanc Double de Coubert rose, 
51 

Blanks, forms for, 98 

Blood as a fertilizer, 126 

Bone meal, 105, 126 

Bourbon Perpetual rose, 31 

Breeding new varieties, 30 
methods kept secret, 35 
table of main varieties, 31 

Brenda rose, 51 

Briar stocks for budding, 19, 149 
for grafting, 24 

Bridesmaid rose, 36 

British Queen rose, 51 

Budded roses, 20, 22, 23, 93 

advantages of, 21, 22 
objections to, 20 

Budding, 18, 19 

Buds, small, removal of, 126 

Bugs or beetles, 131 



Camoens rose, sport from (Ecar- 

late), 26 
Captain Haj^ward rose, 51 
Caroline Testout rose, 36, 51, 69 
Cecile Brunner, climbing, 72 
Celine Forestier rose, 74 
Characteristics of prominent 

roses, 33 
Chauteau de Clos Vougeot, 51 



151 



INDEX 



Cherokee rose, 142 
China roses, 31 
Christine Wright rose, 69 
Classification — main varieties, 

50-66 
Climate, American, influence of, 

on European roses, 38, 40, 139 
Climbers, 67 
planting, 75 
pruning, 76 
Wichuraiana, 76 
Climbing Hybrid Tea roses, 68 
Climbing Kaiserin Augusta Vic- 
toria, 69 
Climbing Mrs. W. T. Grant rose, 

70 
Climbing Richmond rose, 70 
Cloth of Gold rose, 74 
Colors and shades, 40, 42 
Conrad Ferdinand Meyer rose, 

51 
Coquette de Lyon rose, 37 
Coquina rose, 74 
Countess of Shaftesbury rose, 51 
Crimson Rambler, 78, 142 
Crushed stone for underdrain- 

age, 87 
Cultivation, 125 
Cutting of flowers, 121 
Cutting off bushy tops in late 

autumn, 134 
Cuttings, 15, 17, 21 



Daily Mail rose, 59 
Damask Hybrids, 31 

propagation of, 17 
Perpetual, 31 
Dean Hole rose, 51 
Debutante rose, 74 



Diagram showing location of 
each rose should be kept, 102, 
103 
Disbudding, 126 
Diseases, 125 

remedies, 126, 137 
Dr. Gill rose, 36 
Dr. Van Fleet rose, 70 
Dorothy Dennison rose, 72 
Dorothy Page Roberts rose, 51 
Dorothy Perkins rose, 72, 73 
Dorothy Ratcliife rose, 51 
Drainage, 87 

Duchess of Albany rose, 26 
Duchess of Sutherland rose, 52 
Duchess of Wellington rose, 52, 
102, 111 
Best 16, No. 14 
Duchess of Westminster rose, 52 
Dwarfs (bushes) and standards, 
38-40 



Ecarlate rose, a sport from 

Camoens, 26, 52 
Edmee Metz rose, 36 
Edu Meyer rose, 52 
Eliza Robichon rose, 73 
Ellen Willmott rose, 52 

Best 16, No. 4 
Etoile de France rose, 52 
Eugene Boullet rose, 52 
Evangeline rose, 30, 73 
Excelsa rose, 29, 73 



Farben Koenigin rose, 53 
Ferdinand Jamin rose, 36 
Fisher Holmes rose, 36, 53 
Flies, green, 127 



152 



INDEX 



Flowers, number of, in a season, 

111 
Foreword, 7 

Formaldehyde for spraying, 133 
Forms for inquiry and order 

blanks, 98, 99 
Fortune's Yellow rose, 78 
Franciscka Kruger rose, 53 
Frau Karl Druschki rose, 36, 44, 
53 
Best 16, No. 1 
Freifrau Ida von Schubert rose, 

53 
Freiherr von Marschall rose, 53 
Frost, protection of soil from, 

for late autumn planting, 90 
F. R. Patzer rose, 53 



Gardenia rose, 73 
Gartendirector Hartrath rose, 53 
General Jacqueminot rose, 35 
General MacArthur rose, 29, 53, 
102, 111 
Best 16, No. 10 
General-Superior Arnold Janssen 

rose, 53 
Geoffrey Henslow rose, 53 
George Arends rose, 53 
George C. Waud rose, 54 
George Dickson rose, 54 
George Laing Paul rose, 3 
Gloire de Dijon rose, 74 
Gloire Lyonnaise rose, 54 
Grace Molyneux rose, 54 
Grafting, 24 

Grange Colombe rose, 54 
Green flies, destruction of, 127 
Greenhouse for hybridization, 32 
Grossherzog Freidrich rose, 54 



Ground, cultivation, 128 
Gruss an Teplitz rose, 54 

Best 16, No. 12 
Gustav Grunerwald rose, 55 



Harry Kirk rose, 55 
Best 16, No. 13 
Heinrich Schultheis rose, sporta 

from, 27 
Hermosa rose, 55 
Hiawatha rose, 29, 73 
Hilling up late in autumn, 134, 

144 
Hoeing, 128 

Hon. Ina Bingham rose, 55 
Hugo Roller rose, 55 
Hybrid China roses, 31, 34 

Perpetual roses, 22, 27, 29- 
31, 34, 38, 44, 47, 68, 
122, 139 
ancestors of, 30, 31 
Tea roses, 22, 27, 30, 31, 34, 
38, 47, 68 sq., 122, 139, 
143, 144 
Wichuraiana roses, 29, 69 
Hybridization, 30, 32, 33, 145 
Hybrids, seeds from, useless, 16 



Indica, Odorata, 31 
Information, general, 139 
Irish Brightness rose, 55 
Irish roses, single, 44 



Jacqueminot rose (see General 

Jacqueminot) 
Jacques Vincent, 55 



153 



INDEX 



Japanese Multiflora stocks for 

budding, 19, 20, 94, 95 
John Cuff rose, 55 
Jonkheer J. L. Mock rose, 55, 111 

Best 16, No. 6 
Joseph Hill rose, 45, 55, 102, 103 
Juliet rose, 55 

K 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria rose, 

37, 56 
Key to classification, 51 
Killarney rose, 40, 46, 56, 102, 1 1 1 
new varieties of (sports), 
26 
Best 16, No. 5 
Killarney Brilliant rose, 56 
Konigin Carola rose, 36, 56 

L 

La Detroit rose, 36 

La Fiamma rose, 74 

La France rose, 34, 37, 57 

dark, 26 
La Tosca rose, 57 
Lady Alice Stanley rose, 56, 111 

Best 16, No. 8 
Lady Ashtown rose, 56 
Lady Barham rose, 56 
Lady de Bathe rose, 56 
Lady Downe rose, 57 
Lady Hillingdon rose, 57 
Lady Katherine Rose, 57 
Lady Margaret Boscawen rose, 

57 
Lady Mary Fitzwilliam rose, 37 
Lady Pirrie rose, 57 
Late autumn planting, 90 
Laure de Broglie rose, 57 
Laurent Carle rose, 57 
Best 16, No. 11 



Layering, 16 

Liquid manure, 126 

Litter for winter protection, 134, 

135 
Location and preparation of 

beds, 80 
Lord Penzance rose, 57 
Louise-Catherine Breslaurose,58 
Lucida roses, propagation of, 

from suckers, 17 
Lyon rose, 58, 95 

M 

Mabel Drew rose, 58 
Madame Alfred Carriere rose, 75 
Madame A. Tupinier rose, 58 
Madame Berard rose, 35, 70 
Madame Bravy rose, 34, 35 
Madame Charles Dubreuil rose, 

58 
Madame Charles Lutaud rose, 59 
Madame Charles Worth rose, 59 
Madame Edm^e Metz rose, 36, 

59 
Madame Edmond Rostand rose, 

59 
Madame Edouard Herriot rose, 

59 
Madame Gabriel Luizet rose, 59 
Madame Hector Leuillot rose, 

59,71 
Madame Jules Bouche rose, 59 

Best 16, No. 2 
Madame Jules Grolez rose, 60 
Madame Leon Pain rose, 60, 111 

Best 16, No. 7 
Madame Melanie Soupertrose, 60 
Madame Ravary rose, 60 
Madame Segond Weber rose, 60 
Madame Victor Verdier rose, 34 



154 



INDEX 



Mdlle. Marie Mascurand rose, 60 
Main list of roses, 43, 50-66 
Maman Cochet rose, 60 
Manetti stocks for budding, 19, 
149 
for grafting, 24 
Manure, 105, 125, 126 
Marechal Niel rose, 74 
Margaret Dickson rose, 60 
Marquise de Sinety rose, 60 
Mary, Countess of Ilchester, 

rose, 61 
Merveille de Lyon rose, 36, 61 
MUdew, 129, 131, 132 
Miss Alice de Rothschild rose, 61 
Mrs. Aaron Ward rose, 61 
Mrs. Amy Hammond rose, 61 
Mrs. Arthur E. E. Coxhead rose, 

61 
Mrs. A. R. Waddell rose, 6 

Best 16, No. 16 
Mrs. Charles Custis Harrison 

rose, 61 
Mrs. Dudley Cross rose, 61 
Mrs. E. Townshend rose, 62 
Mrs. Frank Bray rose, 62 
Mrs. Fred Straker rose, 62 
Mrs. Greorge Dickson rose, 62 
Mrs. Harkness rose, 27 
Mrs. Harold Brocklebank rose, 62 
Mrs. Herbert Hawksworth rose, 

62 
Mrs. John Laing rose, 62 
Mrs. Joseph H. Welch rose, 63 
Mrs. Leonard Petrie rose, 63 
Mrs. Longworth rose, 36, 63 
Mrs. Wakefield Christie-Miller 

rose, 63 
Mrs. W. J. Grant rose, 37, 63 
climbing, 70 



Mock rose (see Jonkheer J. L. 
Mock), 55, 111 

Molly Sharman Crawford rose, 
20,61 

Moss, 84, 100, 129 

Mulching with peat moss, 84-87, 
129 

Multiflora (see Japanese Multi- 
flora) 

Musk rose, 31 

My Maryland rose, 29, 63 

N 

Natalie Bottner rose, 63 

New varieties, development, 25 

Noisette roses, 31, 74, 75 



Odette Pedriolle rose, 63 

Ophelia rose, 63 

Ordering, importance of care in, 

91 
Oskar Cordel rose, 63 
Own-root roses, 21, 22, 92 



Paul Neyron rose, 64 
Paul's Early Blush rose, 27 
Peat moss for rose beds, 84-87, 

129 
Periods of blooming. 111 
Pernetiana rose, 31, 146 
Perpetual Hybrids, 22, 27, 29, 

30, 31, 38 
Persian Yellow rose, 16 

Briar (Luteae), 31 
Pests, 125 

remedies, 127, 137 
Pharisaer rose, 64 
Pierre Netting rose, 144 



155 



INDEX 



Pinching off superfluous blooms, 

121 
Planting, beds and preparation, 80 
general instructions, 100 
late autumn, advantage, 97 
of climbers, 75 
rules for, 106 
Plants, acclimated, 94 
autumn, 90 
budded — field-grown — 

dormant, 92 
grafted — small, 38 
ordering of, 91 
own-root, 21, 22, 92 
Polyanthas, climbing, 72 
President Carnot rose, 102, 103 
President W. H. Taft rose, 64 
Prince de Bulgarie rose, 64 
Principal A. H. Pirie rose, 64 
Propagation by suckers, 17 
established varieties, 15 
new varieties, 23 
Protection from autumn frosts, 90 
general, 133 
of standards, 135 
wall — wind — winter, 136 
Provence hybrids, propagation 

of, from suckers, 17 
Pruning, general, 109 
in late autumn, 134 
of climbers, 76 



Queen Mary rose, 64 



Radiance rose, 29, 64 
Rayon d'Or rose, 64 
Red Four Seasons, 31 



Reine Marie Henriette rose, 35, 

70 
Remedies, pests and diseases, 

125, 137 
Renee Wilmart-Urban rose, 65 
Richmond rose, 65 

climbing, 70 
Robert Huey rose, 65 
Roots of roses, care of, 100, 
106 
feeding of, 125 
spreading out, 104, 107 
Roots of trees, protection from, 

80 
Rosa Moschata, 31 
Roses, best of each main color,l 
42, 43 sq. 
breeding — main varieties, 

31 
budded, 19, 22, 95 
budding, 19 
classification of, 50-66 
climbers, 67 
cultivation, 125 
dwarfs, 39 

foreign — color varying, 40 
pedigree, 35, 36 
sixteen best all-round, 41, 
50, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 
59, 60, 61, 65 
standards, 38, 135 
Rugosa roses propagated by 
suckers, 17 
stock for budding, 20 
Rules for planting, 106 



Seedlings, 25, 28 
Seeds, established varieties, 16 
hybrids, 16 



156 



INDEX 



Senateur Mascurand rose, 65 
Shoots from below the bud, 20 
Shower of Gold rose, 74, 75 
Simplicity rose, 65 
Sixteen best roses, 41 sq. 
Slugs, destruction of, 130 
Soil, most suitable, 83 
Souv. de Louis Perrier rose, 65 
Souv. de M. Verdier rose, 36 
Souv. du President Carnot rose, 

65, 70 
Spinosissima roses, propagation 

of, by suckers, 17 
Sports, 25 

rarity of, 28 
Spraying to kill aphides, 127 
Standards and dwarfs (or 
bushes), 38 
protection of, in winter, 39, 

40 
weeping, 39 
Stock of plants kept on sale, 92 
Stocks, Briar, 19, 24 

budded — dormant — field- 
grown, acclimated, 92, 94 
Japanese Multiflora, 19, 94, 

95 
Manetti, 19, 24 
Rugosa, 17 

shoots from, below the bud, 
20 
Suckers, 17, 130 
Sunburst rose, 65 
Suzanne Marie Rodocanachi 

rose, 65 
Sweetheart rose, 29 



Tea roses, 22, 37, 38, 39, 140, 144 

climbing, 68 sq., 140, 142 
Tongueing (see Layering), 17 



Ulrich Brunner rose, 65 
Underdrainage, 87 



Varieties, best, 33, 41, 50 sq. 

established, 15 

introducers of new, 27 

main list, 50-66 

new, 40 

propagation of new, 23, 25 
ViscounteesFolkstonerose, 36. 66 

W 

W. A. Richardson rose, 75 
Watering, 129 
White Dorothy rose, 73 
White Killarney rose, 66 
White Maman Cochet rose, 66 
Wichuraianas, 69, 70, 72 sq., 140 
Wm. Shean rose, 66 
Willowmere rose, 66 
Windbreaks, 81, 142 
Wintering roses, 139 sq. 

received late in autumn, 93 
Wood ashes as a fertilizer, 126 
W. R. Smith rose, 66 

X 

Xavier Olibo rose, 66 




ALEX. HILL GRAY Tea 

Alex. Dickson & Sons 1911 
With us lighter than description. Fair growth, some autumn bloom 




ALICE LEMON Hybrid Tea 

E. G. Hill 1912 

Lighter than English description; a small grower with little autumn bloom 




See Hat 



ANNIE BESANT Hybrid Tea 
P. Nabonnand 1910 




See list 



BEAITE INCONSTANTE Tea 
Peknet-Ducher 1393 



i > 

2 PI ^ 

- >^ P 

S- o 2 



■^S 






w 



5; g si; 





COMTESSE FELICTE HOYOS Ilyhrid Tea 

SOUPERT & NOTTING 1912 



LADY GREENALL Hybrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Sons 1911 



Both shy bloomers 




CHARLES J. GRx\HAME Ilyhrid Tea KAISER WILHELM II. Hybrid Tea 

Alex. Dickson & Sons 1905 Weltek 1910 

Both weak growers in Middle Atlantic States 




See list 



DEAN HOLE Hybrid Tea 
Alf.x. Dickson & Sons 1904 




See list 



DOROTHY PAGE ROBERTS Hybrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Sons 1907 




See list 



DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND Hybrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Soxs 1912 




See ii.il 



DUCHESS OP" WESTMINSTER Hybrid Tea 
Ai.EX. DicKsox & Son's 1011 




EARL OF WAR\MCK hybrid Tea 

Paul & Son 1904 

Fair grower, some autumn bloom 




ELIZABETH Hybrid Tea C. W. COWAN Hybrid Tea 

B. R. Cant & Sons 1911 Alex. Dickson & Sons 1912 

Both fair growers with some autumn bloom 




EVELYN DAUNTESSY Ilijhrid Tea 

McGbedy & Son 1011 

Very weak grower in Middle Atlantic States 




See list 



FARBEN KONIGIN Hybrid Tea 
HiNNER 190'2 




See list 



FREIHERR von MARSCHALL Tea 
V. Lambert 1904 




Sc. list 



GEOFFREY HENSLOW Hybrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Sons 191'2 




See List 



GEORGE DICKSON Eyhrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Sons 1911 




See list 



HERMOSA China 
Manchesan 1840 




See VM 







Hee list 



JOSEPH HILL Hybrid Tea 
Pebnet-Ducher lOO-l 




See list 



LADY ASHTOWN Hybrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Sons 1911 




See list 



LADY BARHAM Hybrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Sons 1911 




LADY BATTERSEA Iluhrid Tea 

Paul & Son 1901 

Shy bloomer and weak grower. A collector's rose. 



MARY COUNTESS OF ILCHESTER 

■Sec list 



GEORGE C. WAUD 

See list 




See list 



LADY deBATHE Hybrid Tea 
B. R. Cant & Sons lOU 




LADY HILLINGDON Tea 

Lowe & Shawyeu 1910 




LADY MOYRA BEAUCLERC Hybrid Tea 

Alex. Dickson & Sons 1901 

Weak grower in Middle Atlantic States 




LADY PIRRIE Eyhrid Tea 
Hugh Dickson 1910 




tStfe list 



MABEL DREW Hybrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Sons 1911 




See list 



MADAME A. TUPINIER Hybrid Tea 
A. Pedriolle 1910 



> 
C 3 








See list 



MME. EDOUARD HERRIOT Pernetiana 
Pern-et-Ducher 1913 




MADA^NIE PAUL ROUCHON Hyhnd Te 

Pedriolle 191-2 

Fair grower, some a\ituinn bloom 




See list 



MADA:ME SEGOND WEBER Uyhrifl Tea 

SoCPERT AND NoTTING 1908 




MADAME VERMOREL Tea 

Mari 1901 

Small grower; some autumn bloom 




MADAME WAGRAM, COMTESSE deTURENNE Hybrid Tea 

Bernaix 1895 

Some autumn bloom, weak grower in Middle Atlantic States 




See list 



MLLE. MARIE MASCURAND 
Bernaix 1909 



Hybrid Tea 




See list 



MARY. COUNTESS OF ILCHESTER Hybrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Sons 1909 




See list 



ISnSS ALICE .leROTHSCHILD Te 

Alex. Dickson & Sons 1910 




See list 



MRS. CHARLES C. HARRISON Hybrid Tea 
Ai.Ex. DrcKsox & Soxs 1910 




MRS. CHARLES E. ALLAN Hybrid Tea 

Hugh Dickson 1911 

Weak grower in Middle Atlantic States 




MRS. JAMES CRAIG Hybrid Tea 

Hugh Dickson 1908 

Small grower, some autumn bloom 




See list 



MRS. LEONARD PETRIE Hybrid Tea 
Alex. Dickson & Sons 1010 




MRS. RICHARD DR^VPER Hybrid Tea 

Hugh Dickson 1912 

Only fair growth, some autumn bloom; poor foliage 




See list 



NATALIE BOTTNER Hybrid Tea 

BOTTNEB 1910 




Seel 



OPHELIA Hybrid Tea 
Wm. Paul 191-2 




See list 



PHARISAER Hybrid Tea 

W. HiNNER 1903 




See list 



PRESIDENT W. H. TAFT Hybrid Te 
Wm. Paul & Son 1910 




See list 



PRINCE de BULGARIE Eyhrid Tea 
Pebnet-Ducher 1902 




tiee list 



RADIANCE Ilyhrid Tea 
John Cook 1912 




ST. HELENA Hybrid Tea 

B. R. Cant & Soms 1912 

Not hardy in Middle Atlantic States 




WHITE KILLARNEY Hybrid Tea 
Waban Rose Co. 1909 



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BINDERY INC. 

JUL 89 



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